Sam's build thread

[Sydneykid]

interesting - similar question - wheel aligner put 6.5° of caster in my mini and it steers really nicely, but the LHF wheel rubs on the leading edge of the mudguard lip at half lock, I tidied up the lip a bit, but without modifying the guard it's either remove some caster or machine the wheel to remove some offset.

What's the tradeoff between losing a degree of caster or losing 6-8mm of front track?

Take the extra caster every time, don't even think about it.

Cheers
Gary

[Sydneykid]

the corner I really struggled with for lines was the down hill crested left hander that leads into the hairpin. In the end I was giving a little stab on the brakes to get it rotating, turning in quite late and apexing that one right at the last part of the kerb. That meant I could get hard on the throttle again before getting it back into second and climbing on the brakes for the hairpin.

That's the right technique Sam, rotate, late apex and applying throttle as you are straightening the steering wheel. You should be at 100% throttle well before the apex. It really shouldn't need a dab on the brakes to rotate, just a slight throttle lift should be enough, a bit more rear damping maybe would have helped on the day. More rear toe out is of course the long term answer.

Cheers
Gary

[simon k]

Take the extra caster every time, don't even think about it.

Cheers
Gary

champion - thanks Gary

I guessed that'd be the answer, but there's a voice in my head that says "maybe that extra little bit doesn't matter"... "you might be wasting your time by machining the wheel"...

[sambb]

Thanks Gary. Yeah I should have kept going with the damper adjustments to see if stiffer would have helped but just wasnt getting enough seat time. Now that I've tested it out with the rear bar on hard, I'm not shy of adding some more rear toe out - I'm currently at 1mm total - and adding in another hald degree of negative camber at the same time to bring the rears out to 2 degrees neg. I'm also thinking pulling out the 22mm front bar and going back to the stock 20mm might be on the cards, but I will try more rear toe/camber first.

[Sydneykid]

Thanks Gary. Yeah I should have kept going with the damper adjustments to see if stiffer would have helped but just wasnt getting enough seat time. Now that I've tested it out with the rear bar on hard, I'm not shy of adding some more rear toe out - I'm currently at 1mm total - and adding in another hald degree of negative camber at the same time to bring the rears out to 2 degrees neg. I'm also thinking pulling out the 22mm front bar and going back to the stock 20mm might be on the cards, but I will try more rear toe/camber first.

If it's not understeering with the 22mm bar then I'd leave it. A few more mm's of rear toe out won't hurt. How much toe out do you have on the front?

I'll keep my eyes out for some more of the 215/50/15's, I know who is using them currently, so I can do some stalking.


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

I only had 3mm total toe out front and 1mm total rear. 2.75 deg neg front and 1.50 dgree neg rear. With the rear damping of its 12 click range I was 4 clicks out from full hard before it started to turn. That's what made me think I was compensating for excessive front stiffness and made me think of the front bar, but yeah more rear toe needs to be tried first I guess.
Re the tryes, yeah that would be great. Any way I look at it I think 215 is the way to go for the track now. thx

[sambb]

Hayden thats a bit extreme, was the thing boosted up big time? It looked pretty standard. I've never seen so much oil at a track. A rod out the block, one guys oil filter fell off, a DSG explosion. Sean and Pete said that in one of their sessions they had to back off because there was literally no visibility with the mop up dust going everywhere. Cant say I've ever done an event and didnt get on track until 11.30am. Dont worry at Ringwood they run a very tight ship and you're on by 9am without fail and you'll get up to 6 runs in during the day.

[sambb]

Gary if I was just to turn in without utilising lifts, lifts with brake dabs it probably would push a little bit the whole way around. I don't drive like that though so I'd have to say its not understeering provided I get my entry speed right.

[TDIfan]

I'm not shy of adding some more rear toe out

Don't be shy at all. I've just went from 1.09 degree toe in to .44 degree toe in and now I want to go back to 1 degree again.

[HaydEn]

It’s fairly stock, a few modifications. They get hot oil 125c + really quick and I think that combined with heavy braking on the rev limiter has all come together to cause this.

Yeah I had a session first out after the first oil down over the whole track, it was pretty hard to see!

That’s good news. I’ve got a few things to do but hopefully make it there on the 10th June.

Brake pedal is really spongey and not very efficient after the day!


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