Sam's build thread

[Sydneykid]

Gary got another one for you: the 8kg/mm rear recommendation, does that still hold true considering I do primarily hillclimbs. While it might be right for circuit stuff I'm just wondering whether that'll be too aggressive for hillclimbs with dirty stone cold tyres. Just final checking before I order them.

No real black and white answer I'm afraid. It depends on what tyres you are running, the temperature on the day, the track surface, the track layout etc. When I was running a FWD car in hillclimbs I ran very soft (compound) tyres and didn't warm the fronts up too much, no big tyre smokin burn outs. As I didn't want huge tyre temperature differentials front to rear. I also used to take the rear wheels off and stick them in the sun between runs.

It's circular reference, #1 we don't want too much weight transfer off the front for the take off, so a high spring rate is a necessity (because you don't have separate bump and rebound adj in the shocks). But #2 we don't want too high a spring rate such that it rotates at the first corner. My preference would be the highest spring rate it can handle to optimise #1 and then use the swaybar to minimise #2. No amount of swaybar is going to help with #1.

I'm afraid the only real answer is to try it, sorry.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

thanks. I was thinkng that re the temp differentia after the 'tyre warming'. In the interest of preserving clutch/gearbox/LSD I've always saved it for the last 2 runs and to be honest haveound little difference anyway and yes have gone very sideways on the opening corners probably as a result.
lAlright i'll have my hands full with lots of jobs to set it up. I pulled the pin on tomorrow nights rallysprint - just way too under prepared. List of things to do on suspension:
1. raise front slightly and check that I still have enough droop.
2. install 8kg/mm rears and remove one locking ring to get it a bit lower and check bump travel.
3. adjust out one of my RARB links to remove some bar preload that is there. Prob should do bars with 70kg weight in the drivers seat.
4. fit eibach shim to right rear which has +3mm toe. Left is nearly zero so result hopefully squared up at zero toe each side.
4. machine my hub centric rings so that they mate up to my bigger spacers properly so I can match front and rear tracks.

also fit brake ducts, setup spottie, fit airbox = ready for december 7 rallysprint.

[Sydneykid]

You want some toe out on the rear, minimum 2 mm each side, 3 mm would be OK.
I'd also run some toe out on the front, around 2 mm per side would be good.

Cheers
Gary

[seangti]

4. fit eibach shim to right rear which has +3mm toe. Left is nearly zero so result hopefully squared up at zero toe each side.

Howdy man, do you know if the shims can be rotated to be camber or toe centric? I've never actually seen the shim and how they fit on the car. I've got whiteline shims.

Got my car aligned last week and my guy suggested more rear camber. Not sure how it'd be possible to go about that.

[sambb]

Yeah I think both are possible. I've seen ones where there's two discs the fit over the top of one another. On a 2 axis lookup table you choose the camber and toe you want which gives you a pair of numbers that you align the discs to. HOW TO: Fit Adjustable camber/toe EZ-Shims to the rear beam / stub axle. I assume the eibachs work the same way but to be honest I havent even opened the packet yet.

[Sydneykid]

Yeah I think both are possible. I've seen ones where there's two discs the fit over the top of one another. On a 2 axis lookup table you choose the camber and toe you want which gives you a pair of numbers that you align the discs to. HOW TO: Fit Adjustable camber/toe EZ-Shims to the rear beam / stub axle. I assume the eibachs work the same way but to be honest I havent even opened the packet yet.

Eibach sell rebadged Specialty Products shims, so they do both toe and camber.

I think the Eibach Polo shims are Golf Mk4 Specialty products shims. If you can find the original part number I can confirm that.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Yep mine were bought as Eibach but now that I check them out they are Speciality Products company. On the main sticker on the back the part# is 5.75200K. There is also a small part#99720 printed in the bottom left back of the box.

[sambb]

Just took delivery of a K&N Apollo. Basically a pod in a cone box arrangement. Got to admit that I'm a bit over making things and when I found that I could get a genuine one (be careful the rip jobs are everywhere) for a decent price I thought what the hey. I was actually after a K&N Orion which is a bit bigger but the prices were a bit too high. So when I took it out of the box I freaked because it is very compact, but I rana tape measure over it and it has more area than the OE K&N drop in filter for the OE box. That filter had an area of 249cm square and the Apollo has 280cm square. Also the Apollo filter has 25% more pleats so it has decently more filter surface area. Also the OE box breathes through a 60mm bellmouth and this one has a massive bellmouth base that tapers down to an ID of 64mm which is a very close match to the MAF intake which this will but right up against so I'm hoping it'll flow better. I'll get some pics up once its fitted.
I was going to build a partition in the engine bay that sealed against the underside of the bonnet. I thought that was legal because at a community show recently the Police pursuit cars were there and they had the exact same arrangement. I was just told though that they don't have to adhere to the NSW rule that says the pod can be visible in its partition but basically a hand isn't able to get in to touch the pod. When I found that I was going to have to box it in fully I just went with the K&N pod.
I'll be putting my K&N OE drop in replacement filter up on the classifieds soon so if anyone is interested let me know. To be honest I mostly ran paper filters cos I don't trust filters I can see through especially when I wasn't running it oiled, so the filter is in pretty new condition.

[sambb]

[NGT18T]

just a suggestion, if you get a 90d bend off the maf into the k&n then it would eliminate the bends and shorten the flexi hose. good setup though i love how much room the engine bay has with just moving those big bulky batteries