Sam's build thread

[sambb]

yeah? never knew it. thanks mate i'll check it out.

[sambb]

yeah? never knew it. thanks mate i'll check it out.

edit: just had a look at them HaydEn. yeah I had seen those. was a bit shy of not using solid ones. can you vouch for them - have you set them up and run them for a while?

[HaydEn]

yeah? never knew it. thanks mate i'll check it out.

edit: just had a look at them HaydEn. yeah I had seen those. was a bit shy of not using solid ones. can you vouch for them - have you set them up and run them for a while?

Negative. A few og mk3 dudes used them however.

I currently use washers. Just because easy.

There are people that make 'camber plates' which is essentially just a wedge(door stop looking thing) that you could have made with toe correction.

[sambb]

Which car did you use washers on - the Mk 3 in your avatar? If so, did you washer it to add/subtract camber or toe correct? If it was to toe correct, what did the toe change from/to? I'll have to see what the stubs bolt pattern is on your axle to see if it compares to ours.
RE the camber plates I'm just worried it'd be a lot of effort to get accurate measurement, the machining and the fitting/re measuring with still no guarantee that it'll be right. have to have a think..

[sambb]

FYI, In the 'parts for sale' section I just put up a long list of standard and go fast items that I need to move in order to finance the LSD and hopefully some coilovers.

[sambb]

Had to think of an alternate way to run the tow fitting since the intercooler pipe work prevents the OEM tow hook from being screwed in properly. I just cut the stock tow hook low on its shank leaving its shoulder above the thread intact. I then cut the top off a 10mm allen headed bolt, got a fitter at work to weld them and then tidied it up afterwards. I had to drill out the tow straps flange which took a while cos its hardened steel and it all fitted up perfectly. Hopefully i'll never have to use it!

[seangti]

Damn, that's looks really well done Sam. Fingers crossed it'll never need to used.

My red polo has the rear whiteline shims. They were done by the previous owner so I can't comment on back to back comparison. They were on my to-do list though. In comparing corner speed and g-forces between the two cars on the same tyre (an old semi slick and pre LSD), there was no tangible mid corner difference. The silver polo being easier to steer hard, not quite as twitchy or stressful. There's obviously many other suspension differences to account for this. Hill climbs being slower and tighter, you probably want quite an aggressive set-up to yield the results.

To better understand some of this set-up your chasing, is it some toe-out on front and toe-in on the rear??

[sambb]

To be honest I'm not sure how much toe I should be running in tight stuff. The car with the modded control arms/ball joints and offset rear LCA's had nearly 7 degrees of pos castor. I know a mates car when when you are putting a lot of lock on some really weird things happen to toe. Apparently sometimes you might even have to start with toe in to prevent excessive toe out with a lot of steering lock on when other geometry changes are at play. I intend on getting it on the swivel plates and taking some measurement so I can see what is happening - bit of a ways to go before I get there though.
On the rear I was looking to reduce the amount of toe in. Not to go to zero toe, cos the engineer I was speaking to about the rear beam who used to race improved production FWD said that apparently even that can get very twitchy as the corners open up or when you rapidly change direction one way and then the other like through a tight chicane. The aim of that is just to make the car more inclined to back itself into/rotate through the tight stuff so that you can basically steer through it with less steering lock on.

[sambb]

I found this little sucker under the passenger seat. Its listed as a dual sensor. Its only a 4 pin plug. I'm thinking longitudinal + lateral G sensor or possibly longitudinal + yaw. I'll do some checking and find out.

edit: it is an acceleration + yaw sensor.
https://www.autotav.com/ESP-Duo-Sens...-0-265-005-278

edit 2: hmm if you search the bosch part # rather than the VAG one, it comes up as a longitudinal + lateral G sensor.

[sambb]

Made a bit of headway today. Got one of my mates around with his 4WD to drag the rolling wreck up and out of the garage. Its now parked in the driveway in a position where I hope the claw will be able to reach it once its finished being stripped cos it won't be rolling up a tray that's for sure. Now all the suspension, hubs, steering, rear beam and doors can come out/off.
I just compression tested the new cars engine (which was mildly warm with old oil in it) and it came in at 160-165psi per cylinder and swapped in the old cars BKR7E's that were about 50km old when it was destroyed, while I was at it. Happy now to keep that engine in the car so it'll get a Subaru top engine clean, oil flush and change asap which will give me a service date to run off.
I can now set to work stripping all the modified goodies off the old engine and get them once-overed and cleaned up ready to be swapped into the new car soon.
Within a couple of weeks then the UN- modded K03s + manifold, stage 1 ECU etc + suspension will be sellable.

PS if anyone needs dash parts let me know. Dashes have always been the bane of my life and I don't fancy ripping it apart unless someone wants something (the foretrim that cracks which runs under the inside of the windscreen will stay with me if I make it that far though) so let me know.