Volkswagenist
It’s fairly stock, a few modifications. They get hot oil 125c + really quick and I think that combined with heavy braking on the rev limiter has all come together to cause this.
Yeah I had a session first out after the first oil down over the whole track, it was pretty hard to see!
That’s good news. I’ve got a few things to do but hopefully make it there on the 10th June.
Brake pedal is really spongey and not very efficient after the day!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Volkswagenist
the state event is July 7th I think and you have a full practice day on the Saturday too for only an additional 25 bucks or something. Very good value and you'll be tuned in to the track by sunday and hopefully smash a few wrx's - you'd be in the road reg over 2.5L 4WD class for the state event.
Volkswagenist
Thanks Gary. Yep I'm a total convert to toe out now and will just keep putting more and more into it I'll get another pair of shims and do the back again soon. Thanks again re the tyres.
edit: Actually the more I think about it, that second paragraph you wrote is IT. I do get that now. Wishing I hadn't crept up on the rear settings now and had just gone the whole hog initially. I think the main issue i'll run into will be aligning the calipers to the discs though. Its easy enough to shim the calipers to align for camber but doing both toe and camber is going to need a bit of fiddling. As 4mm toe out from the factory 6mm toe in is a bloody big angle change on each side.
does willwood or Brembo make generic toe angle shims for calipers or anything like that?
Last edited by sambb; 30-05-2018 at 04:04 PM.
Volkswagen Enthusiast
the big mini event I've been busting my arse to get prepped for is in 10 days time - after that I'll get to and pull the rear stub axle off, measure it up and get some spacer plates made so we can cut the caliper lugs off the torsion bar like Gary said... can stick them in the mill and add some toe as well if you likeOriginally Posted by sambb
remind me if I haven't done anything in a couple of weeks. We'll need someone (Gary!) to specify the best material to use...
Volkswagenist
actually if you made the shims more than just that and turned them into a 15mm spacer too, then you would have enough material available in the shim to run new angled threads into them. Still not sure about the alu vs steel arguement on that one though. I'm happy to de-lug my beam as I've got two, so I'm more than happy to be a guinea pig. Really to confirm calcs in the real world you'd need a reliable rear alignment to get a base line. Then say shim it with eibachs and measure the results to confirm you get the settings you want relative to the baseline, and then cut the alu/steel shims at a copy cat angle to what the eibachs were set at. make sense. Problem is your beam is probably completely different to other peoples so a one size fits all approach would be difficult. Dunno if I ws making them for my beam that's how I'd do it though.
Volkswagen Enthusiast
yep, that's about what I was suggesting to do - make the plates, cut the existing lugs off, fit the plates, correct with shims, measure several times, machine plates as required. The shims can go back in to make further fine adjustment if needed
if you measure up the stub axle & caliper mount on your spare bar it'll get me going. A decent photo or two would be handy too
Volkswagenist
I got onto the bottom plastic IC pipe issue. I bought a 90 degree 2 inch pipe and bent it out to about the required 100 degrees with a bit of heat and force. The ID of the stock plastic one is 42mm and this is 48mm too. It fit in there solid as a rock and is now mount off a vacant screw hole in the block. Hopefully the end of pipes blowing off because they cant be tightened properly and maybe itll flow a bit freer now too.
Volkswagen Enthusiast
I haven't done a beam/torsion axle for toe and camber but I have done a few trailing arms, a beam would be much easier. I just bolted it all up out of the car and measured the toe and camber, then used handful of washers in between the stub axle and the hub/upright until I ended up with the toe and camber that I wanted. Then counted/measured the washers and made up the spacer plates to those measurements. On a 4 bolt stub to get 2.5 degrees neg and 6 mm toe out it was something like;
3 x 1.0 mm washers top rear
4 x 1.0 mm washers top front
3 x 1.5 mm washers bottom rear
4 x 1.5 mm washers bottom front
I just told the machinist those thicknesses at the bolt holes and he adjusted the mill accordingly. When I stuck them on the car it was a mm or so out in the toe and pretty close on the camber. Not perfect, but with big bushes in the trailing arms there was more movement than the difference. Big win on the handling through, even if not perfect by the numbers.
Hope that makes sense
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
Volkswagen Enthusiast
I'll confirm it with the machinist but from memory our caliper brackets are 6082 T6.
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
Volkswagenist
good stuff. yeah I was thinking that if the stubs on the axle are removed then you'd need maybe to do it in steel? not sure the aluminium would end up thick enough especially if it was to be tapped for the caliper bolts. Maybe the shim to could cover the existing hole (which has its threads drilled out) and then the caliper bolts run through the shim plate, through the axle lugs too (so it all bolts together in a sandwich) but then you run angled washers on the back side of the axle stubs with nuts. comprende?
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks