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Thread: Sam's build thread

  1. #1691
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    Great work Sam, hadn't noticed that rear wheel, your car is working! Disappointed I couldn't make it, hopefully the car won't be out of action for too long.

  2. #1692
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    Nice one Sam.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  3. #1693
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    Sam's build thread-img_9260-jpg Sam's build thread-img_9261-jpgSam's build thread-img_9262-jpgSam's build thread-img_9263-jpgSam's build thread-img_9264-jpgSam's build thread-img_9265-jpg
    Shiny stuff!! X beam, Forced Pin Oiling, 20mm wrist pin (BJX OEM = 19mm), ARP 2000 rod bolts and they appear to be brutes in comparison to the OE rods out of a BAM 1.8T 20V from an S3. Note that the S3 conrods are actually force pin oiled - you can see the hole in the big end and the void cast into the neck of the rod for the gallery. No idea as yet if BJX 19mm pin end rods that we have are rifle drilled too, but at least what I have will match the S3 OEM design ideas in that respect.
    Now awaiting a quote for big end bearings, main bearings, rings, mains bolts, front/rear main seals, crank/cam pulley bolts, gasket kits, timing belt/tensioner. Have also just ordered templates from the UK so that I can cut and weld my own sump baffles into an OE sump. Hopefully all that comes in at a price I can actually afford so I can get moving on things. Torn as to whether I should get the short block built by the engine shop for piece of mind and then do the rest myself or have a crack myself. I have access to all the appropriate analogue measuring gear at work, but I've never done a bottom end before and buying all the other tools needed for that may end up costing some decent coin anyway so I'm not sure. anyway fun to come!
    Head is still down at the engine shop so they can vacuum test it and make sure all the valves are sealing aok

  4. #1694
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    Very nice!

    I say do it yourself - no one else will spend the time and effort on your stuff that you will. I always figure that I would never pay someone to spend as many hours on a job like that as I spend on it myself, so I can't expect them to do as thorough a job, even if they can save some time through experience / knowledge / better tools. Plus if you spend the money on tools instead of labour, even if the cost works out to be much the same or more, next time (and there's always a next time right?) you'll already have the tools. I've never regretted taking that approach, but there's plenty of people who have the opposite opinion too.

  5. #1695
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalhead View Post
    Very nice!

    I say do it yourself - no one else will spend the time and effort on your stuff that you will. I always figure that I would never pay someone to spend as many hours on a job like that as I spend on it myself, so I can't expect them to do as thorough a job, even if they can save some time through experience / knowledge / better tools. Plus if you spend the money on tools instead of labour, even if the cost works out to be much the same or more, next time (and there's always a next time right?) you'll already have the tools. I've never regretted taking that approach, but there's plenty of people who have the opposite opinion too.
    I'm with you... I do my own (mini) engines and gearboxes and I know it's all done properly

  6. #1696
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    Yeah I went through the gear at work and they have inside & outside micrometers of every conceivable size that I could likely borrow, I already have all the telescoping gauges. If the bores aren't oval and the main journals are round then it will most likely stay at my house and i'll do the work. I'll pay someone to come around and do a good drill hone. But if the bores and/or mains don't measure right and it has to go off to a shop then it may stay there for short block assembly if funds appear, but I'm guessing that wont happen so yeah I'm generally gearing up to doing it myself.
    I have a few drive bits to order, special tools to make and parts to build (sump) so I can do all that in the interim while I keep accumulating parts.
    There'll probably be lots of questions along the way!

  7. #1697
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    We need hillclimbs like this in Australia Hillclimb: Puig Major 2019 - Motorsport.tv
    Insurance might be a concern
    We sent over some bits for the Mosler, just made it in time for last weekend.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  8. #1698
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    I know. The mainland European ones are a lot like that too - proper long runs. I guess we sort of evolved from the British hillclimbs which are much more grassroots, B-road'y and short. I wince to think what it would cost to campaign a car there.

  9. #1699
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  10. #1700
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    Thanks mate. I'll definitely have a read. I didnt even know this was possible until Seb from Eurorevolution tld me it was possible. When my left knee finally goes turd it'll be DSG time so to have it in my car would be awesome.

    Hey I was going to contact you re the injector cups. I just found a set of new ones for my large port AGU mani. What adhesive/sealant/epoxy did you use to fit them. Dont want to use the wrong compound and find that the cups heat up/crack/deteriorate.
    I may have found a way that I can fit my shorter bosch EV14 injectors (same length as small prt injectors) in to the AGU mani that normally uses 60mm longer injectors. You can use cups that extend the length of the injector but I think i'll do this as a more reliable method: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3598653
    That way I can use the existing small port fuel rail which I know is compatible with the bosch ev14's on the top side, and hopefully their O-rings will seal correctly into the large port cups. I have been told the large port cups are made for wider O.Dmm injector O-rings but from what I can find people use small port size washers in them no problem......grain of salt with that though, so more research needed.

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