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Thread: Sam's build thread

  1. #1641
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    May 2009
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    What did you use to cover the remnants of the strut domes? It looks neat. I’m going to attack mine with the angle grinder tomorrow before SDMA on Sunday so I can get at my damper adjustment.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #1642
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    A rule of thumb (I know you like them) caster plus camber should be minimum 10 degrees, eg 6.5 degrees of caster plus 3.5 degrees of camber = 10 degrees.


    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  3. #1643
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    Nice work, I'm a big believer in caster!

    Wow, absolute minimum 10 degrees for caster plus camber? I'm at around - 2.5 camber and ~5.5 caster. Way off. I have thought that it felt to be rolling over the front tyre on faster tracks now that I have more grip. Might be worth putting a bit more caster in, I'm not sure how much I can get though. Don't think I'd want to run much more camber on the street?

    Sam, I got down to a 1:08.3 at Wakefield yesterday.

  4. #1644
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    Stay out of this Andrew. You're too quick and aren't allowed any more caster!! 1:08 jeez ...... I want another crack!

    I had 5/1/2 degrees caster and nearly 3 degrees neg camber. Yeah I remember that rule of thumb Gary. Thats why I was hoping that if I was up around 7/1/2 degrees that I could maybe get away with a tad less camber than before and benefit from slightly more tyre on the road coming out of corners. The car is markedly different to drive so I'd say it wasn't a smidge that I added. I think it looks to be about 25mm at the top extra.

  5. #1645
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    In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?

  6. #1646
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?
    Edit never mind the guy was pushing 500hp...

    VWVortex.com - max speeding 1.8t rods FAIL!!
    Last edited by Sirocco20348; 06-09-2019 at 04:10 PM.

  7. #1647
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    I've read about those rods a bit, they have them for minis too... I just wouldn't be able to get that niggling thought out of my head that they're gonna fail one day

  8. #1648
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    In other news I need feedback on ....gulp....china conrods. The engine shop near me said that whenever someone wants an engine built and don't want to shell out for rods (sounds like me) that they steer them towards Maxspeeding rods. Thats obviously for the budget people. They said they haven't had a failure yet. These rods come with ARP 2000's and they said they even checked the ARP serial number on the bolts that come with the rods with ARP in the states and they were legit. anyone used them in a 1.8T that wasn't 400hp plus?
    They are freaky cheap aren't they, they offer the upgrade to L19 rod bolts as well. I'll check around and see if anyone has used them and let you know. They are the right material 4340 and CNC machined (the only way that they could do them at those prices) so the only real test is hardness to make sure the heat treatment is as per spec. That's not difficult to have tested, then normal engine builder stuff like mic the bearing journals, overall weight and balance, all pretty easy to check.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Last edited by Sydneykid; 06-09-2019 at 05:05 PM.
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  9. #1649
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    Yeah Scirrocco that's the review I read which scared me, but he had a GT3071R on it! The engine guys next door said they are usually within +-0.5g of each other. My Clio mate got some weighed up and they were 15g heavier per rod than Carrillo's. You literally get rods and bolts at the price of bolts nearly. Hard not to consider it.

    Where that 500hp guy may have gone wrong is that on their site they list Golf Mk4 gti rods as having 19.9mm big end width. As far as I know that is incorrect. Our rods have a 19mm wrist pin and the S3/TT's had 20mm wrist pin diameters but as far as I know the big ends are all the same at 24.9mm wide. I asked them to clarify and they just re-stated their specs to me …. which aren't right. So I could buy their S3/TT rods which do have the correct big end dimensions but then I'd have to go to a S3/TT piston with the fatter wrist pin. I can do that but they are 9:1 and ours are 9.5:1 and if possible I'd like to stay at 9.5:1 in case I ever go the E85 route down the track but I guess its not a big deal. Its just things like that though that make you go hmm am I going to get what I order.

  10. #1650
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Stay out of this Andrew. You're too quick and aren't allowed any more caster!! 1:08 jeez ...... I want another crack!
    LOL! If it makes you feel any better, the second quickest car there (after a Radical) was a TT RS, and that thing was a monster. Ran in the 1:05s. I don't know what he'd done to it, I could basically keep up with him in the corners, but he left me for dead on the straights(!!!) much to my surprise.

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