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Thread: SAI and N249 Removal

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    193

    Thanks for the photos noone. I'm intending to do this, but still need to get a blanking plate.

    But - do you need to remove the tower on which the combi valve sits, or just the valve itself? The Forge blanking plate (if that's what you have) seems to be made to fit on the top of the tower, not over the hole where the tower joins the block. This would also mean not having to disconnect the coolant line in the process.

    Appreciate your comment.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
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    4,058
    The plate is designed to cover the air connection on the engine, it is not common on other 1.8T's to have this part.

    I thought removing this part would be a better idea, 1 less place for air to leak and less hardware sitting in the engine bay...

    removing the combi valve only would have been difficult as there are still parts in the way, I thought about this, but didn't have the tools to do it.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canberra
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    193
    So do you think the Forge plate will fit either the top of the tower or the hole with the tower removed?

    I haven't been able to find any other blanking plate but the Forge one, and don't want to order till I'm sure.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
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    4,058
    The DIY I've linked shows it used there, but it is designed to be used on the side of the engine as per my install.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Curitiba/PR, Brazil
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    479
    Users Country Flag
    Removing all these parts give another look to the engine bay. It is much better.
    SILVER TEAM

  6. #46
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Melb Vic
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    305
    Users Country Flag
    I have checked the tower piece and the blanking plate does not fit at the top, you must install it at the engine, my advice about the collant would be to drain the radiator first so as the coolant loss is min. from the sorrunding low point hose, you will still lose some fluid. you will remove three bolts to get the combi out, put the spare bolt back into the unused hole. good luck

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    269
    Users Country Flag
    Ok sort of related, i'm got the P0411 (P0411 Sec.Air Inj.Sys. Incorrect Flow Detected 16795) code on my car at the moment. Just a Forge 007 DV, N75J, PD160 and K&N Filter installed. I cleared the code the first time by resetting the battery and it came on again after a day or two and i cleared that with my friends Scangauge 2 - just hope it doesnt come back.

    Any ideas what it could be?
    MY2008 VW Polo GTi / GIAC Tune / Forge FMIC / Forge 007 DV / N75 Race / BMC OTA / KW V1 Coilovers / Whiteline Front&Rear Swaybars + Toe-In Shim / Weichers Front&Rear Strut Braces / Full Non-Res Milltek Exhaust / 17" Bora Sport

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
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    4,058
    Sounds like a pipe or maybe the combi valve playing up. Any other codes?

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    269
    Users Country Flag
    Nah no other codes just that one. I'll check the vacuum hoses that go to the combi when i get home. Possibly the hose is pinched somewhere or is leaking/broken?

    Hope so, dont want to fork out for a new SAI pump or combi valve.
    MY2008 VW Polo GTi / GIAC Tune / Forge FMIC / Forge 007 DV / N75 Race / BMC OTA / KW V1 Coilovers / Whiteline Front&Rear Swaybars + Toe-In Shim / Weichers Front&Rear Strut Braces / Full Non-Res Milltek Exhaust / 17" Bora Sport

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058

    Check the air hose to the block and airbox, they clip in. If loose, may be loosing some of the record air or sucking unfiltered air.

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