Ross-tech Bleeding Issue 9N3

[Blue Shell]

Yeah I'm aware of the different systems. There is an option for brake bleeding but it comes up with an error. May just have to take it to a shop.

[Umai Naa!!]

Sounds like you've over-complicated a relatively simple task.

You don't need to open the hydraulic system to change pads or rotors. You just push the piston back, fit the new rotor and pads, reassemble, pump the pedal, and repeat on the other three corners.

In some instances, you may overflow the reservoir, but you can always wash it down with water when you're done.

[Transporter]

+1 what he said.

[Catfish]

Plenty written on here about bleeding Polos, by myself and others, there is a totally different method to bleed them. Not like the conventional furthest to master back. If you opened it up you must follow it or you will be chasing your tail.
Jmac

I'm confused about this.

Are you saying that even if you're just changing the fluid, but not breaking the lines, you shouldn't use the standard left rear/right rear/left front/right front/clutch bleeding sequence? If not, why not for Polos?

Cheers.

[Blue Shell]

Yeah I wish it was that simple, I have gone through that process and the opposite way more times than I can care.
I feel that doing this is not helping the situation and I can't comprehend fluid coming from the calliper with no bubbles and the pedal retaining it's spongy composure.

[h100vw]

I'm confused about this.

Are you saying that even if you're just changing the fluid, but not breaking the lines, you shouldn't use the standard left rear/right rear/left front/right front/clutch bleeding sequence? If not, why not for Polos?

Cheers.

VW manual says to do the fronts together with their machine before the rears together. If there's air in the system.

Then for ABS mark 60 systems, front left, front right, rear left, rear right.

Bosch ABS is rear right, rear left, front right, front left.

There's a note about long pedal travel. Which requires a second person. Press pedal and hold, release fluid at caliper until pedal goes all the way down. Tighten bleed screw then repeat 5 times, do all calipers.

Road test and get the ABS to kick in.

Gavin

[Umai Naa!!]

Also check for ABS codes in the CANbus. No fault lights will show up on the dash, but it will make the ABS act up, giving a long pedal, and locking wheels.

[Catfish]

VW manual says to do the fronts together with their machine before the rears together. If there's air in the system. Gavin

Thanks for that. But my question above assumed NO air in the system. I've done it in that sequence several times since I've had the car, with no obvious problems. Am I skating on thin ice?

Cheers.

[h100vw]

Thanks for that. But my question above assumed NO air in the system. I've done it in that sequence several times since I've had the car, with no obvious problems. Am I skating on thin ice?

Cheers.

I can't see a reason to worry.

I haven't done mine per the book either.

Gavin

[Catfish]

I can't see a reason to worry.

I haven't done mine per the book either.

Gavin

Thanks again. Found this explanation of the 'why' for the left front / right front / left rear / right rear sequence - "The newer ABS Mk 60 system has the lines to the front brakes coming off the top of it. Therefore any air in the system is bled out of the controller if you bleed the front brakes first".

Presumably all 9n3s have the Mk 60. Where is the ABS pump located, so I can at least do a visual check before taking this as gospel?

Cheers again.