Also was that meant to be 23psi cold for the front left, 25psi for the front right.
Unreal - well that will take the guess work out of it! Thanks Gary. RE front neg camber I have left: 3.50 decimal degrees, right 2.50 degrees. I'll be running A050 mediums 205/50/15 on 7 inch rims. Should I bring the right side up 0.50 degree or back the left off by the same amount. ie left 3 degree right 2.5 degree OR left 3.5 degree right 3.0 degree.
Also was that meant to be 23psi cold for the front left, 25psi for the front right.
Last edited by Sydneykid; 20-12-2017 at 11:41 AM.
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
No worries re pressures I knew what you meant. yep Jan 14th. If its anything like today in Sydney its going to be brutal on the car. Fair bit to do now actually. Luckily my 8kg/mm rears arrived and have gone straight in. With the rear bar set to soft they are actually no worse than the 6kg/mm rears (bar on hard) for ride comfort on Sydney's turd roads, which means they'll probably stay in there all the time.
I'll have to get my softs taken off the RP01's and the mediums put on, sort some front spacers, get the brake ducting in, rig up the front mount water spray. I also need to decide on a good set of front pads something that can cope with a day at wakefield, a rally sprint in February and then get through the rest of the year doing hillclimbs.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
discs are DBA T2 288mm fronts and stock rears. Rear pads are remsa's and the fronts are the Bendix 3000's that I think you said was in the car when I bought it. Come to think of it I don't have the really high temp fluid either. In the hillclimbs of course I've never needed more. On the fronts I'd intended on keeping the backing plates in place and weld on a tube that the duct would blow air into. With xmas and all + I wont be at work for a bit, there won't be time to do that so I'll just get the backing plate off and run ducts from the fog light recesses that step down in diameter and blow against the inner face of the disc.
Cos of the standard di brakes discs I'll definitely have to do the front pads at minimum. I'll look into the QFM AR1M's then. thx
Unless you've changed the rears since buying it, they are DBA T2's. I run the castoril dot 4 stuff and never had an issue with it.
The remsa's may get a bit warm but wakefield isn't overly high speed, more so little stabs/brushing to get it around.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
Yeah I changed out the discs for a fresh set of rotors off a fabia vRS when I got the calipers off the old car rebuilt. The DBA's were getting a bit lippy and the new ones were basically new. You had remsas in the back and I did on the other car too - can't remember which set I put in, probably the ones out of the old car as they were brand new. The rears have the stone guards missing after the botched shim effort too. For the fronts, I don't have to go QFM or green stuffs - I do have a set of remsa's off the old car. If you think remsas all round will handle it on stock sized rotors then I'll just do that. They held up well in the 3km+ rally sprints which was all point and squirt stuff. Considering that it could also be 40 degrees and lap after lap though I'm not sure.
Hoyhoy.
This may make sense in theory, but not in practice.
O.K. may be a tiny bit of toe out with less HP than a Ko4 which Sam doesn't have.
I ran with neutral toe for Waky & still delaminated the front left more than once.
I say this with confidence after many a go @ Waky with the only street reg. 9N3 to crack sub 1'10" plenty of times.
(officially)
So Sam that's your target for Waky.
Last edited by Eddy; 21-12-2017 at 07:11 AM.
Hooroo.
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