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Thread: Phillip's little Red (Marco)

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Western Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrisPiripi View Post
    This baby right here Phillip's little Red (Marco)

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Did you end up fitting this successfully?

    Sent from my SM-T815Y using Tapatalk

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    nsw
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    I dont see how its do able. The Forge barely fit against the gear linkage cables on my car and this is much bigger. Hope it did though cos I'll be getting one if it did!

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Brisbane (Drewvale), QLD, Australia
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    22
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Phillip's little Red (Marco)-20190824_162843-jpg
    Finally pulled my finger out an got it installed. Induction noise is a much louder and Marco does seem to pull a lot harder. Exhaust next methinks....still keen on 17s though too

  4. #54
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    Sep 2013
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    nsw
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    was it a struggle to get it to clear the gear cables or easy fit?

  5. #55
    Sam they do fit... Just need a little trim on the turbo end of the TIP... I put one in the other day

  6. #56
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    Sep 2013
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    nsw
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    I've read that there are gains with these 'fatty' TIP's vs your run of the mill Forge ones which are much narrower down at the bend before the compressor flange. Damn... should have done one. I have the Forge version but always figured these wouldnt fit without wedging the gear linkage cables. I'll have a different turbo soon so its a moot point but good to know the 'fattys' fit.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    I'd personally position the offset bushes in the outer position for more caster but thats just me. Basically its wheels off, knocking out the balljoint or undoing the ball joint flange bolts to get the control arms out ( a very good time to hack out the front lower control arm bushes and replace with polys while its out too - more $$), then either use a pressing tool in reverse or a hack saw to get out the old rear LCA bushes, but defo need a pressing tool to get the new ones in. Like I said if you get the VW pressing tool, you can use it to get the old out and the new in with the subframes still in the car. If not you'll be removing them from the car entirely (leaving the steering rack and crossmember balancing on a stand) and taking them to a mechanic who can do the pressing for you (and hopefully get them in straight! - marking the subframe and bush so they go in on the right orientation is a very good idea if a third party is doing it for you). If doing the latter you'll be getting a subframe and toe alignment afterwards and if you did the balljoint flanges rather than the ball joints themselves then an alignment is needed then too. I found it to be a dirty **** fight if I'm honest. I've done it 3 times. Its time consuming, nothing is particularly grey matter-ish, just lots of grunting lying on your back under the car to get it done. If you're going to commit to do it yourself I'd say make sure you have the pressing tool and that you don't necessarily need the car the next day unless you love pulling all nighters.
    I see Sam's post is about a year old, but I just replaced my rear LCA bushes the other day, so this may be useful to someone. Took about 4 hours, and I'm pretty slow. I bought this tool from Amazon, $US50 plus $NZ35 postage to get it home. Brilliant. Pressed in the Superpro offset ones, with the tool allowing me to do it with the subframe in situ.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPVHFD6..._W6RRDbK5FSX5R

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