I know that harding performance were selling a Milltek full exhaust system a while back. Not cheap but guaranteed to fit no dramas. The other option is to go custom (you'd need the flange) and that way you can go 3in +100 cell cat rather than Milltek's 2.5in. You can then stay with the stock rear section if money's tight.
Tune-wise, if you are going to a full exhaust with a dump then you'll need a stage 2 tune. Seriously don't bother with stage 1 if your intention is to progress the car a fair way. You'll get it and about 3 months later be shopping for the stage 2 gear anyway. Harding performance might even sell you the exhaust/tune as a package and you might be able to do a deal? They wouldn't move too much stuff for 9N3 Polo's these days and might be prepared to listen to some haggle? Otherwise Custom Code do stg1 and 2 flash tunes. I think the Custom code guy up there is Jake Lym. If you cant track him down speak to Gav at Underground Performance and he'll put you in contact with him.
Intercooler and TIP will more than likely be off ebay. TIP's vary a bit so try to find one that resembles the Forge item for fatness/curves/shape. Stock airbox is fine, just ditch the inlet pipe and run an 76mm convoluted tube (from autobahn/supercheap whatever) to it from the cold air feed above the radiator. De flap the feed.
For the IC, the SEAT sport or its aftermarket clones often come in kits with all the pipework you'll need to make it plug n play. Awesome GTI, psituning, orange tuning etc are all overseas shops that do that kind of stuff.
Other than that stick some BKR7E NGK's in it gapped to 28 thou and all will be fluffy.
I bought a Forge TIP from this store on eBay.
FORGE SILICONE INTAKE HOSE FITS SEAT IBIZA Mk4 1.8T FMINDIBFR4 | eBay
And just like that, Marco begins his Mod journey. Stubby antenna (lame) and.....whiteline rear sway bar.
OMG, simple install, amazing results.
Just trying to find a guide on how to install my LCA anti-lifts now
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what brand LCA did you get? Being anti lift I'd assume they are metal sheathed bushes which need the pressing tool. With the VW/audi tool you can do it in the car. Otherwise you can remove the subframe from the car and do it with a workshop press, but that's a pretty big job.
it'll be toed out a lot when you're done - use this to do a before and after wheel alignment - DIY Alignment Calculator
and do it one side at a time!!!
I'd personally position the offset bushes in the outer position for more caster but thats just me. Basically its wheels off, knocking out the balljoint or undoing the ball joint flange bolts to get the control arms out ( a very good time to hack out the front lower control arm bushes and replace with polys while its out too - more $$), then either use a pressing tool in reverse or a hack saw to get out the old rear LCA bushes, but defo need a pressing tool to get the new ones in. Like I said if you get the VW pressing tool, you can use it to get the old out and the new in with the subframes still in the car. If not you'll be removing them from the car entirely (leaving the steering rack and crossmember balancing on a stand) and taking them to a mechanic who can do the pressing for you (and hopefully get them in straight! - marking the subframe and bush so they go in on the right orientation is a very good idea if a third party is doing it for you). If doing the latter you'll be getting a subframe and toe alignment afterwards and if you did the balljoint flanges rather than the ball joints themselves then an alignment is needed then too. I found it to be a dirty **** fight if I'm honest. I've done it 3 times. Its time consuming, nothing is particularly grey matter-ish, just lots of grunting lying on your back under the car to get it done. If you're going to commit to do it yourself I'd say make sure you have the pressing tool and that you don't necessarily need the car the next day unless you love pulling all nighters.
Think I've decided to get my mechanic to do it at my next major service
I'll be installing my TIP when it arrives (soon hopefully)
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