Little Red Devil

[Jmac]

Hmm professionally fitted that, looks like it was meant to be there

[mikepologti]

looks good man , was thinking of getting one of these a while back but didnt wanna look like one of those tools with huge boost gauges all over the place, but that looks nice. gratz

[VWindahouse]

Thanks Mike! Where you been hiding mate?

---------- Post added 13-11-2011 at 04:22 PM ---------- Previous post was 12-11-2011 at 08:36 PM ----------

Finally got some time to myself today and decided to try to get an air box sorted for the new pod filter and ducted cold air set up! After heaps of measuring, deliberation and dissapointment I realized there still wasn't enough room under in the engine bay for a decent custom air box to fit.

So set about trying to figure out a solution and realized the already very small Deka battery was still an issue and robbing me of much needed space.

So decided to change its aspect from east west to north south which ultimatly pushes is futher away from the pod filter and frees up a heap more room.

So to do this the poor old battery tray had to be drilled and cut up once again. Started with drilling out the left hand side of the tray to allow the angled part of the aluminium battery holder to slot through and lock in.





Then drilled a hole for a bolt to fasten the front of the battery holder to the tray



And the end result





As you can see there's enough room to swing a cat in there, well for a polo anyway

So now to protect the entire setup from engine heat and Bob's your uncle

[noone]

Good progress. I was poking around the front bumper yesterday, trying to see if there was a place near the stock intake location to duct from, but not much help. I wonder if the corrugation of the flex pipe you're using is going to slow the airflow.

[s4mmie]

Would relocating the battery to the rear of the car prove useful? Would this free up space for a decent intake path, or is there just not any decent paths whichever way you look at it?

[mikepologti]

been gone for a while because life got in the way. thankfully im in a better place now , red beasty lookn good btw

[VWindahouse]

Glad to hear it Mike! Are you a chance of some happy laps at lakeside?

So had another tinker after moving the battery. This time was after a place for the aluminium bell that came with the ducting to have a permanent home behind the fog lamp grill to catch some cold ram air to make the whole exercise worth while! Once again not an easy task.

First had to hacksaw off the ass end of the bell on an angle to help with fitting as there's no room behind there and the angles are super tight



Then had a bitch of a time relocating the horn assembly and adjusting its arms so the two horns actually fit still allowing the fog lamp to screw back in its hole



Then trimmed a bit more from the inside of the grill and here's the result



---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:33 PM ----------

Hey noone, yeah the ducting looks a little deceiving from the outside. Here's a shot from the inside showing how it smooths out when when fully extended as the wiring spirals around the outside. I was just waiting to see what type of air box I was going to go with before I cut the excess length off.



Happy to say decision made!

Steve from Modshack is going to custom build me a hybrid TTDA/VTDA thermal sealed airbox that allows for the 3" cold feed ducting in the front and either the stock MAF or larger OD 3" MAF in the rear.

(side note on the 3" MAF I installed - started to lose boost after a few days. Read why here

Modshack | Stage 2 MOFO (BAMM)

So I have a 4bar FPR on the way too)

The guy knows his stuff and has done countless testing on a heap of Audis and Dubs. Here are the links - very interesting read

Modshack | Stage 1 TTDA
Modshack | Stage 1 VTDA

---------- Post added at 04:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

spraycanmansam - yes mate the total battery relocation was a last resort for me.

[VWindahouse]

Ok so phase II of the induction project is underway!

So the plan is to get more air flow than the crappy little runners on the small port intake manifold will allow so going for the large port manifold swap off an old AGU engine. I have seen flow tests carried out on Vortex and they show the big port manifold flows about 10% better than the small port. So to do this I had to lose the SAI pump for fitment reasons so went the whole hog with the N249 & N112 delete also.

Pic of the flow test results



Here's a pic of the AGU manifold that I painted with heat resistant paint to help keep heat transfer from the engine down. See the width of the runners, much wider than the stock small port.




Also painted the TB to match!



Here is the rest of the stuff needed plus some extra goodies



So to get the manifold port matched to the head I got a Phenolic gasket in the transition port version. This sucker is thick, much thicker than the power gasket I'm running at the moment so should do a great job of stopping heat transfer!



Here's the link for those interested. They also do a small port only if you're wanting to use the stock small port manifold. Pack includes 2 normal gaskets plus the phenolic as well as longer bolts.

Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer

Now there is one more hurdle and that is the AGU manifolds fuel rail mounting holes are 11.5mm higher than the polo. So of you use the polo's fuel rail the injectors won't seat. Not even close actually as the polo uses the smaller EV-6 injectors. So Jimmy is helping out with this little issue so not worried

In the mean time completed the SAI pump delete.

So needed 3 resistors, combi valve block off plate and some coolant. Got the resistors from INA who actually sell OEM looking ones that plug right into the existing plugs so no cutting of any wires if you want to return everything back later. They look great actually





Now the ones you want to get from INA are 2 oval type (I some how stuffed that simple task up and got one oval and one square that does't fit ) The SAI plug is bigger so they don't actually make one for that so they just sell a bare 10w 300ohm resistor. So to keep from cutting any wires I just bought some 2.5mm male plugs and wired them onto the end of the resistor which just plug into the stock plug like this

[VWindahouse]

Then removed SAI pump and combi and replaced with block off plate and refill with coolant



Engine bay looks much cleaner without all this





There must be around 5kgs of weight saving and it makes chaging spark plugs a dream also.

Thanks to noone for his DIY seen here

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...val-44429.html

So to drive the car feels more raw, alive and responsive with more induction noise also. It dosn't feel choked up in the higher revs like it used to and boost comes on a little sooner to! No CEL yet after 60 odd kms

So next is to sort out that fuel rail and install the AGU manifold and will change to the colder range thermostat at the same time as it's well hidden under the manifold. And I'm hoping the custom air box and MAF will be here in the next week too! Here are a couple of pics Steve from Modshack sent

[h100vw]

Oh yeah! That 10W resistor can handle some heat mate, be good it you could get a different one that has a heatsink built in, which you could bolt down. Buy High Power Resistor,wirewound,aluminium housed,15W,5%,330R Arcol HS15 330R J online from RS for next day delivery. Just see how hot it gets.

Gavin