JT's Polo Building Adventure!

[sambb]

I’m hearing you Gary. I think the reason why vw’s get locked into 98 and wmi is because people retain the factory ecu’s and go for remote tuning. Having a clear knock threshold in the logs gives the offsite tuner the ability to set things up pretty easily and cheaply. From what I can gather finding MBT without a clear knock threshold when remote tuning isn’t the most efficient process.
With haltech elites and link g4+ available plug and play though I will eventually get to it on a dyno some day soon.

[JTop]

Update

Another fellow 9n3 buddy came around today to get his mk5 golf steering wheel installed and tried fixing a few of his issues with his recently purchased GTI
HVAC only runs when dial is turned to number 4 and the error code is 01596, motor for outside/recirculated air flap open or shorted.
I have an idea where it is but involves dismantling the whole dash to get to it/replace it. Output testing didn't fix it and I believe the wires are fried if not the motor is gone.
Mentioned to him that rocker cover is slowly doing the same as the other Polo that I'm yet to put back together and CV boots be slightly leaky. Oil was low(topped it up after) and engine was making a funny knocking noise, check up on VCDS and suprise suprise, cyl 1 knock sensor be giving a higher voltage than the rest. Oil made it a bit better but still not 100%.


After he left, continued on the rear bracing and got that finished!

Also finished installing my rear dash cam after oh so long due to breaking the first cable head's and dinting my quarter panel outwards when it got jammed without any way of retrieval
Need to get PDR done on the car once it's all ready, but as I've been told by my mate, $50 a hole(professional shop) it really does add up..

That's about it for today.
Got to not simulate the brace onto another 4 of them so they can fit for others and then get them all professionally powdercoated.
Then fit my watermeth kit, run the cabling so it works because right now it's sitting in my car.
Start putting back the other Polo and getting that sorted.

Have a Subwoofer planned, as well as looking for a headunit that'll sit in the nugget holder up top of the dash. Want to get the steering wheel controls in, so got to go wreckers and get the upgraded airbag cable going into the clock spring as well as the ones that clock spring plugs into.

After all that:
LED taillights, VW infinity mirror badge I like the idea
Custom Number plate, I hope nobody takes it within the next month or so

LSD in November when I have time to sit to do it.
Bluemotion/any bodykit, but that'll be something for heaps later probably.


Sam!
So the injector currently in the spacer is 200cc, I've got two more that I discovered today which looks smaller and bigger, than the one I have in the car now. SO, will get a bung to weld into the aluminium piece that has the map sensor on it. Should be enough space to fit everything. Will experiment with plug gaps if that will help in any way as you mentioned.

Gary!
Now that you've mentioned it, I actually don't mind the idea! I have two united petrol stations quite close to me and I fill up at either quite regularly, so it would be a suitable idea, will talk to Gavin and Dave about that soon.


Cheers

[Sydneykid]

Gary!
Now that you've mentioned it, I actually don't mind the idea! I have two united petrol stations quite close to me and I fill up at either quite regularly, so it would be a suitable idea, will talk to Gavin and Dave about that soon.


Cheers

If you are going to move to E85 then the water/metho injection simply isn't necessary, so I wouldn't waste any more time or money on it until you decide.

Cheers
Gary

[simon k]

After he left, continued on the rear bracing and got that finished!


Got to not simulate the brace onto another 4 of them so they can fit for others and then get them all professionally powdercoated.

hey Jan! - tell me more about the rear brace? I've had that on my list for a while

[sambb]

Yeah ..... bolt or weld in?

[h100vw]

Downside to E85 currently is the cost of it compared to 98. I had to fill up an RS6 today that we are tuning on E85. Was 1.69 a litre and you use a fair bit more.
This one has big turbos and now uprated hpfps. Going for 550kw plus at the wheels. Probably won't get 400km from a tank.

[simon k]

Yeah ..... bolt or weld in?

likely bolted because it's made out of galvanised sheet, laser cut and folded... looks nice

[sambb]

Jan if you end up running 98 with WMI you usually run WM in a ratio of 10-15% of fuel flow. So you'd get it tuned without the WMI and then look at your peak injector duty cycles. Knowing your fuel injector size you can then work out the total peak quantity of fuel injected per cylinder and then times by 4 since you have to calculate for all 4 cylinders as you'll have one jet supplying the whole engine. Then you need to establish your closed circuit WM pump operating pressures so you can consult the look up tables for each of your jets to work out which jet will cover up to that 10-15% quantity of water meth relative to your fuelling.
I know aquamist have really good look up tables for their jets. Aquamist run things a bit differently to AEM though. They run a more or less fixed pump pressure and then run a pulse width modulated high speed solenoid to regulate WM flow (just like a normal fuel injection sytem). AEM though I think run a variable pump speed/pressure to regulate WM flow so if you are looking up their jet flows they'll possibly different. ie I'm not sure a 0.8mm aquamist and AEM jet will flow the same. Have a look out there on the web as there are flow charts that I've seen before. Jet sizing is something you just have to calculate once you know the fuel demands of the engine and how you are going to run it (see below).
That's the super generalised rule of thumb for ballparking your jet size. But that's for optimised WM tuning where you ideally lean out your primary fuel (98 RON) as you add 50/50 WM and then run amounts of timing advance akin to E85 tuning. That's where the risk of WMI Gary was alluding to comes in. If you've leaned out the fuel maps to run optimised WMI and the WM system fails you will be running lean with too much timing added and things could go wrong. That's why the good WMI kits come with tank level and fluid flow sensors with fail safe signalling from the controller to a programmable ECU so that it'll hop back into a safe full 98 RON map if a problem is detected. Being a factory ECU you don't have the luxury/safeguard of auto switchable maps between a 98 tune or a 98 + WMI tune. If you wanted a seriously set up WMI tune on the factory ECU then you'd get the car tuned for 98, separately get it tuned for 98 + WMI and then you'd have to flash the map into the car depending on how you wanted to run it. The third option is run WM as an auxillary to your 98 tune, meaning that you don't lean out the primary fuel to make way for a decent quantity of the secondary fuel and add lots of advance. In this situation if you were to add 10-15% WM to your unchanged primary fuelling you'd just be making it run richer (meth is an additional fuel) and also raising the octane above what the engine is tuned for and so actually loose torque as a result. When running WM as an auxillary the idea is to add enough WM that while not adversely throwing out your AFR's, will cause evaporative cooling of the airstream. This gives you a double whammy of a cooler denser charge and due to the way the ECU works it will add timing advance when it see's cooler inlet temps. Think of it as the auxillary WM method as making part use of the benefits of WMI but not all of it. So all in all if you choose to run your WMI as an auxillary with your normal 98 tune, then your jet sizing will need to come back from that 10-15% of fuel flow rule of thumb.
That's why Gary is saying just go to E85. If you ran a fully committed WMI system it would be arguably like an E85 tune in terms of performance but with more complication and risk. Running WM to just augment a 98 tune wont get you to E85 levels of performance because you can only get enough WM in there to drop the temps which helps with some additional timing advance being added before you start mucking with fuelling and bogging it down. But it does definitely help a 98 tune if done right.
So yeah its hard to say what jets size because it depends on how you are intending to run the engine on it - full send or auxillary.

[JTop]

Update
Day off today, hehe



WMI wiring all done EXCEPT, talked to Dave regarding the system, solenoid is required no matter the pre or post throttle body position. So, bought the AEM one from Gold Coast, $110 and that'll go in as soon as I get it, end of next week
Moving the injector position is too much of a hassle for me right now because those sockets you suggested Sam are all from the US or hella expensive/or I have to wait for a very long time for them. I'll ponder on something with this

As my boost gauge runs on hardline, I had to tap off the back of it to provide the WMI controller(located in my glovebox) for its pressure. Then ran into the problem that I finally managed to damage that hardline and have a small hole out the back of the boost gauge. So... have a big problem because I can't find a 1/8" olive that'll fix the connection Also wanted to relocate the gauge to my right side vent so I can fit a infotainment system up top.

Got dark so got into the garage and finished up the other Polo, got it all back together. Cleaned up the rocker/cam cover as well as the intake manifold(fuel seats were filthy) made them and the engine surrounds shiny once again. Everything was good until I had to push the PCV system back onto the rocker/cam cover port and...

SNAPPPP

AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHH

SO, got the crappy elbow out in 3 pieces. I was looking at it and considering replacing it earlier because it looked musty and now I have to anyway .


Put everything else back in except the PD160 cold air intake so I can get to that elbows position. There goes another week of waiting

And as I have been nagged for the past two weeks, garage cleanup time! Packed my tools up, sorted out all the mess and made myself and the rest of my family very very very very happy.

Gary!
I also talked to Dave about E85 and he said I'd need bigger injectors to run it properly, Gavin I agree with you, not really worth it in the long run especially when I'm constantly going from A to B as a designated driver. Might consider it later on, but for the moment I'm quite happy with what I've got.

Simon!
I have one spare brace due to someone dropping out last minute. If you'd be after one text me, should have them ready by next week! $229 for the brace itself + $23 for powdercoating and you get an OCD EURO sticker too. + $18.50 Postage because we're back to lockdown in Melbourne
You have to drill 4x 11mm holes, rivnut system to create mounting points. This is so the brace can be screwed in/taken out whenever really easily. Quite straight forward really.
VW Polo AW Interior Chassis Bracing - OCDEuro Australia
Most definitely be processing more if anyone else is interested!

SAMMMMM!!!
Gotcha. So
It would be a little frustrating running 98 Safe and when I feel like throwing Meth in, running a meth tune.
So would have to go for the Auxiliary because if anything happens, I can just switch watermeth off and not run it.
System has it's low level sender as well as an LED to indicate an issue/that it's running whilst on boost.
In my spare little switch slot next to the drivers seat dial, I've put the LED and the running switch so if it tells me that it's low, I can switch it off rather than run it dry.


Cheers guys

[JTop]

Was a bit bored today on my day off
So decided to make a boost gauge vent because I can't be bothered waiting for one to come half way around the world
Attachment 48640
Works quite well, have made all the adjustments in CAD, for the next try, it'll be better. Would get a spool of ABS to do more, and if I peak anyone's interest might do them for 6C/6R/AW Polos too.

Also spent some time today properly mounting the water meth tank and pump so I wouldn't need to take the brace in and out so many times, used it as a template for the others, got those all cut up too. Amp should arrive tomorrow so I can mount that too before they all go for powder coating.

Planned yesterday the headunit I'll get, as well as the steering wheel control unit, so they can function. Headunit will go up on top of the center dash because I don't like the stock spot, it's too low and out of sight. Stock radio will just be there until I can come up with a more suitable cupholder unit to replace it. Or something else, not too sure as of yet.

Just the small things left to do before I'll be satisfied

Cheers