As the turbo uses the exhaust gasses to compress fresh air, I'm assuming that boosting over the turbo's efficiency range may actually not yield more power?
That is no bunnings valve you salad makers.. lol
That is an industrial air tap capable of holding over 150psi...
Instead of removing it, just leave it open as the internal diameter is the same as the stock hoses... No need to remove it... it wont leak as its good for 150psi.. Its not pretty but its effective..
Basically does the same thing as the festo valve.
I noticed with the stock N75 that if it was closed too much the ECU would bleed all boost through diverter valve..
With the N75J, you could just about close it off and the car would boost to 22psi+ and go like a rocket..
I also did notice that with the N75J, with the valve open it would only boost to 17psi..
I think that if you want more boost keep the stock N75 valve in and it will boost to 22psi (spike) and stabilise to about 18psi..
The N75J seems to boost less with the valve fully open.. hence the use of the air tap..
Last edited by Petrina Polo; 28-09-2009 at 10:30 PM.
when i first drove my car i was cheering for weeks. then when i fitted a boost gauge i was surprised it spiked at 22psi then settled around 15-17psi. later i fitted a forge front mount and it smoothed out the power. it now spike to 18 psi and settles to 14-16psi
still alot of fun
APR V2 | APR Downpipe + custom catback | APR solid mount | FMIC | SEAT intake | BMC filter | FORGE 007DV | KW v1 | WHITELINE RSB
139Kw | 271.8Nm atw - At a new home
See... your boosting in basically the same manner (without air tap).. all the air tap is doing is slightly delaying the dumping of boost as N75 receives signal slightly later... its not running more boost... just the same boost a little longer and more smoothly..
Plautos even had dyno graphs proving it was smoother..
The stock N75 is known to fluctuate boost a little under chipped cars. the air tap stabilises it a bit..
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