has anyone upgraded their stereos?

[kaanage]

Yeah Dićk Smith only sell a very few components now - mostly they sell consumer goods.
You could try Jaycar but by the time you finish stuffing around, you may as well just get the Kenwood<=>ISO and the VW<=>ISO connectors.

[injidup]

Sounds good injidup, let us know how you go with the pin layout, thinking about doing the same with mine
Cheers

Here are two pics that should help:




And a BlurryCam special of my not-so-professional connection with a cannibalised ISO connector:

These wires have been tidied up now!

Hope they're clear enough!

Total cost (not including the head unit): Under $50 (Removal keys for RCD200, ISO Adapter, Fakra antenna adapter)

[injidup]

Victory by Design: Lotus iPod Video:



And Top Gear

[flat6]

that looks awesome, you have inspired me to burn more ca$h cheers

[injidup]

Sorry!
The head unit was under $500 in the sales.

[kaanage]

Will grab the illumination feed (to dim the stereo when the lights are on) from the rear window heater switch as it's easier to get to than the aircon controls.

So which lead to the rear window heater switch did you end up splicing into for the illumination feed?

[injidup]

So which lead to the rear window heater switch did you end up splicing into for the illumination feed?

---------
|1 2 3 4|
|- - - 5|
---------

Pin No. 3
There are only 5 wires. 3 pins are not used.
Hope that makes sense!

[kaanage]

Thanks. I was in the midst of measuring voltages when I was interrupted and never got back to it.

[injidup]

I think it only measures about 7volts, but it's enough for my Kenwood to use as a switch for the dimmer.

[Gti Dave]

Recently bit the bullet and got jl audio front splits, amp and sub installed in my pog. Very happy with the quality of sound but absolutely pissed off with the install guy!!! No rattles whatsoever in the car and doors prior to install but immediately after install, there's a damn obvious and loud tinny rattle sounding like pots and pans in both the drivers side and passengers side doors whenever I close the door or when the car is vibrating from acceleration or driving over somewhat bumpy roads
I originally thought it was due to the vibration or loose install of the crossover boxes in the door but after undoing the 4 screws at the bottom of the door card and giving it a light pull, I can see that it can't be the crossover boxes causing this rattle. It seems to be coming from the deeper inside the metal panel that is screwed onto the door chassis/frame. No dynamat was installed but one wouldn't think the possibility of going from no rattles to crazy loud rattling straight after an install???
Has anyone had a similar experience or know what might be causing the rattling?
Does that panel completely unscrew via the several bolts or is it fixed?
The car's rebooked in for this tuesday for it to be rectified. I've got my fingers crossed that the guy fixes it PROPERLY this time and I'm hoping the cause of all this drama is just as simple as him forgetting to tighten screws etc (but could he have forgotten for both doors?).
Seems that every time I outsource work to be done and whenever people tell me how much experience they have or how happy their customers are with their work, it almost always ends up in problems