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Thread: Functional flat underbody and rear diffuser design

  1. #31

    Thanks Guy, those track days look fantastic and well worth the money. I may have to bring it up with the Minister of W&F.
    No doubt about it, the more practice I can get the better, it's a ball to drive.

    Just to be clear, I'm not driving like an absolute lunatic and expecting modifications to make up for my lack of driving ability or judgement for putting it too hard into a corner. I've noticed that when I'm carrying speed, the rear feels very light after losing a lot of weight from the rear. The problem was nowhere near as bad before. The way I see it, if I can potentially add the amount of downforce equivalent to the weight I've removed, then at speed it should effectively be the same as fully laden and I'm back to square one. But hopefully faster being lighter..

    Is that the wrong way to go about it?

    I'm not trying to be argumentative in any way, I don't think anyone is, just trying to make sure everyone's on the same page.
    I don't mind the tangent this thread has taken, as it seems we all have the same end goal: to be better and faster drivers.
    Polo GTI MY2008
    Build Thread
    136.09kW and 305.28Nm torques, Dynapack Hub Dyno

  2. #32
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    The basic problem is that the car is hugely unbalanced with all the stuff removed from the rear and the aero package needed to fix it would be dramatic and probably impractical for street use.

    I'd try putting the rear seat back in and filling the tank up to see how it feels but without doing proper timed track sessions, you will never really know which setup is faster unless you can get accurate splits for that sector with a timing device.
    Resident grumpy old fart
    VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guy_H View Post
    Best info above is practice, practice, practice.

    Track & Training Days
    Any suggestions on equivalent in Melbourne....thanks

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage
    ...or to lift off BEFORE the corner and then get back on the gas as you turn in.
    Yep, that's the approach I take at the moment. It beats meeting the wall

    Fair point about the rear diffuser not being as effective as a rear wing. The main reason I'm pursuing the diffuser is it's a little more subtle. I would like to run a wing solely for track days, but I'm still trying to come up with a mounting solution that is completely removable. Until then, I thought it would be worth pursuing or even bring up the idea of a rear diffuser/flat pan combo. The way I understand it is if you can get the air moving faster under the car then above, it effectively sucks it to the ground..
    Even smoothing out the rear area so it's not acting like a damn parachute!
    My thoughts were if it was cost-effective it might not be a bad way to go. Bang-for-buck seems to be in the wings favor tho.


    I think there's merit in both sides of opinion, but personally I don't want to learn how to drive a skittish car fast. Putting the weight back in or removing components may help alleviate the problem, but then I lose the benefits of those in other areas. Like I mentioned in my last post, I feel that a bit-o-aero will give me the best of both worlds. At least then I can feel confident to practice and push harder. A few years ago I would just sack up, but I have a wife to come home to people! haha
    Polo GTI MY2008
    Build Thread
    136.09kW and 305.28Nm torques, Dynapack Hub Dyno

  5. #35
    Just to throw another Q out there; How low would be too low pressure in the rear with low profile tyres?
    IIRC low profile tyres need higher pressures than normal to help protect the wheel itself which is why I havent ventured too low..
    Currently gone from 38 to 36psi with a marked improvement.
    Polo GTI MY2008
    Build Thread
    136.09kW and 305.28Nm torques, Dynapack Hub Dyno

  6. #36
    QR is a way better track to do your driver training on, then build up to Lakeside.

    Tyre pressures? - that will depend on a huge bunch of factors - that is something the driver trainers can help advise on

    Clicht - I think John Bowe does similar days in VIC John Bowe Driving Defensive Driving Courses & High Performance Driving Courses

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by clicht View Post
    Any suggestions on equivalent in Melbourne....thanks
    Just get on to a track day and drive, Clint. You've done open wheelers in the past which is far more than most of us here, so don't bother with driver training unless you feel something is "missing" when you get out there.
    Resident grumpy old fart
    VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by spraycanmansam View Post
    Just to throw another Q out there; How low would be too low pressure in the rear with low profile tyres?
    IIRC low profile tyres need higher pressures than normal to help protect the wheel itself which is why I havent ventured too low..
    Currently gone from 38 to 36psi with a marked improvement.
    I thought for circuit driving you wanted higher pressures as opposed to low pressures for drag racing.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by team_v View Post
    I thought for circuit driving you wanted higher pressures as opposed to low pressures for drag racing.
    Depends on your tyre. An "R" compound will have a sidewall 4 to 10 times stiffer than a road tyre, so will work better with lower pressures. edit: and a drag tyre will be considerably software in the sidewall over a street tyre too.

  10. #40
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    just a thought, but wouldnt it be better to make a series of single changes instead of a heap all at once - that way each change can be evaluated on its merits.

    e.g. first try different anti sway bar settings, then put seats in, then rear wing, then splitter, etc and work out which things in your case make marked improvements, vs which things make little or no gain. An extensive process, but the end result is more informed...
    My build thread here: 1.6 sr into 1.8T http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...-8t-63249.html

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