Sounds like a very productive "business trip" then![]()
Sounds like a very productive "business trip" then![]()
If you don't want to soften the rear roll stiffness or increase the front, raise your front ride height or lower the rear. With a torsion beam rear end/mac strut front end, this shifts the bias of the grip slightly towards the rear.
I did this after I spun at turn 1 Phillip Island with lift off oversteer and I only lifted off for a moment at turn in. Since then, the car is much more stable under brakes too (the dive under brakes exacerbates the situation).
+100(and kudos for being brave enough to state what I feel)
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
Thanks for weighing in here Guy, that threads a good read.
Hmm that's interesting kaanage as I had actually lowered the front more since last time... I have a much stiffer front ARB and brace to go on the front, so hoping that helps.
I will say this thread has brought some interesting opinions.
Let me preface the following sentences with: I don't claim to be an amazing race car driver so I appreciate the feedback from those with more experience and I like to learn. And, I'm not having a go at anyone, we're all VW enthusiasts trying to help one another out. These are merely my observations.
With that in mind..
I find it curious that Eddy agrees with Stuwey about the 'more more more' approach not working, when the little blue girl has an insane amount of custom suspension and trickery...
I also find it curious that Stuwey posted a picture of a reportedly very quick Mazda, which has a whopping front air dam and rear ducktail... all aero mods, and at the end of the day that's what we're talking about here, whether it be in the form of a wing or diffuser.
Like I said, not having a go, just a little confused.
I fail to see how driving ability could change the physical grip limitations of the car at a certain speed following the right line through a corner. There is just logically a point where no matter who was driving it, you'll max out your current grip for a corner at a certain speed. Obviously slowing down will fix it, but that's not the point is it?
For example, would you rip all the aero off an F1 and when it goes spiraling off the track tell the driver he needed to practice more?
Wow, this thread has gone a long away from the OP's question about what material would be best to make up a home made diffuser.
Best info above is practice, practice, practice.
The problem is isolating the issues you are experiencing. My suggestion (seeming you are in Brisbane) is to do one of the Paul Stokell driver training days at QR or at Lakeside.
This will give you:
A- some driver tuition one on one on braking points, lines, balancing the car for corners & when to get on the gas.
B- You can let one of the instructors drive your vehicle & give you valuable feedback on where they think your car is lacking or has limitations.
Paul himself has won several national championships in FWD cars.
Probably your best investment of cash at the moment.
Track & Training Days
I totally agree with that. I did a morning of driver training theory at Lakeside last year and it was very good as they went over each corner in detail etc. However the instructor did say you don't let off the accelerator through the kink near the end of the straight which by then I'm in 5th gear and last outing hit about 190. Here is a map of Lakeside for those who have never been there
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It's taken a few outings to Lakeside to muster up the courage to do pin it flat at those speeds through there as there is a big concrete wall not 5 meters or so off the right hand side of the track to great you if you get it wrong and many have. The G forces pull towards that direction which is not a nice feeling. To add to that there are imperfections in the track surface right at the turning point which actually lift you off at the moment those G forces start to act. In my limited opinion and experience when this is combined with the natural lift the polo encounters (as seen in the thread I posted about aero which shows the rear end lifts at 36kgs at 200kph added to the fact we've taken out another 50 plus kgs from the rear) it all combines for a brief holy crap moment. With speaking to a couple of people who attend happy laps that do regular timed events there and clock very impressive times they both say until they got their aero sorted ie. front splitter, adjustable rear wing and wind vortex generator they suffered the same thing.
Sure, but a diffuser is going to do SFA in solving the instability issue - you have listed the extent of aerodynamic changes needed in your post above which is far more dramatic than a rear diffuser alone.
In your situation, the solution is to either man up and hold it flat (easier said than done, I know since I don't do it at turn 1 PI where I probably should) or to lift a BEFORE the corner and then get back on the gas as you turn in.
Stability vs agility is an area where you are always compromising on a track setup and the optimal for a fast flowing track is not the same as for a tight twisty one.
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
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