FMIC & Suspension Upgrade Suggestions/Ideas

[sambb]

That pipe in the pic, the one that goes into the comp housing is for fuel tank vapours - not an oil hose. I had a similar coating of oil on my turbo and it was coming from the rocker cover gasket. Reach your hand down the back right of the cam cover (when facing the engine bay). Often its the back half moon seal on the exhaust cam that'll be trickling or the back right corner and that oil will track down and drip all over the turbo. Check that first and let us know.

[JTop]

Hey Sam,
I had a look Monday but fell asleep writing a response in the evening.
So I did a bit of research to learn more components and how the engine is assembled
So my crankshaft case breather is covered with oil, as you said too, rear rocker cover gasket in the far right is leaky
This whole area is oily after being cleaned when I wanted to figure out where the problem was originating from, got soaked again, so I'll double check everything again..

Mates polo has the same oily crankshaft case breather, but says underneath isn't covered in oil, so got to believe him.

Would it be to replace this breather, get a new one or is there something else to it.
I'll probably get a new rocker cover gasket too, do this before doing any tune, make sure everything is solid so there is less to break.

Cheers <3

[sambb]

YouTube

in the above vid is the crankcase breather. front of the engine under the inlet manifold. The seals are normally fine but the plastic goes brittle and splits. You can just buy them on ebay or go direct to VW. When you go to get yours out you have to twist ever so carefully while lifting without out getting any angle on it or it will sheer clean off in your hand and then you'll be using long nose pliers to dig out the rest of it that's still resident in the block and hoping that no chunks fell in. So really clean the area around it before starting. If your doing it just make sure you have the time to keep going in case this happens and then you probably want to do an oil change/filter afterwards if you think crud and chunks of plastic fell into the sump. I'd change the PCV valve at the same time. If the diaphragm in it fails open, then you'll be pumping boost straight into your crank case which might be why its blowing seals in the first place. The guy in that vid is stressing about nothing though. They just sit in an O-ring and do move around that much. Alternatively 034 or ECS (one of them) sell a fitting that fits into the block OE style (uses same push clip to hold it in against the OE O-ring) but has an AN- threaded output in case you want to run AN lines to a catch can or something. A lot more work/$ in that though. The AN- fittings, hose and catch cans really add up fast. You can also buy billet aluminium PCV valves from 034 and maybe also a complete hose like this but I wouldn't bank on it for a Polo https://youtu.be/yr0xUsaUNJs?t=368

Yeah bugger re the gasket. They can also go underneath the VVT tensioner solenoid and that oil will track backwards because of the slant of the engine and drip down the back too. When you order a gasket kit make sure its go the VVT tensioner gasket and the 'half moon' seal to go with it too. Youd be silly to replace the cam cover gasket and not do the VVT solenoid gaskets cos they will go about now too.

[JTop]

Got a small problem, and if anyone could help that would be great!!

I have a HWY transmission sitting in a polo gti
The diameter of the transmission joint is 108mm
Diameter of two sets of driveshafts that I have, 100mm

So I can't match them up
Sooo...
What code are the driveshafts? I can't find any different ones from any wreckers
What model car does this transmission sit from, because I can't find **** on it?
Do I have to take the transmission out and swap the joints to a smaller size to accommodate the driveshafts I currently have?

Any help would be appreciated
Cheers

[sambb]

Hmm not sure mate. I have an HWY in my car now. It initially came out of an 07' Polo Gti. I transferred it into an 08' that had a different designation and that 08 cars driveshafts went straight onto the early HWY box. Are the bolt patterns definitely different?

[JTop]

Alright, after a bit of finagling, managed to pull the flanges off
They are definitely sized 108mm
Driveshafts are 100mm, so the bolts don't fit through because they are off by a small amount from that extra 8mm

I'll get new flanges tomorrow

Manual says that the HWY gearbox was produced 05-06, which is weird if they're in 07-08's
Cheers Sam

[sambb]

so just to get it straight your Polo has an HWY with 108mm flanges. The 100's are spares are they. Polo's got some parts bin treatment I think which is why they'd have gotten older bits trickiling into them. There are lots of HWY's getting around in them though, they are not uncommon. My other box is a JDB I think with some super minor differences and tgere's one other in the 9N3 Gti I think.

[JTop]

Alrighty so after a month fiddling with a rebuild project, it'll be officially done this Wednesday.

Driveshafts were 100mm and I had 108mm flanges on the trans, swapped them out and have bolted that all back together. Never thought about this before so it caught me off completely.

Biggest problem encountered was the broken shifter cable, was fun driving the car only in second gear because it unsheathed itself and it was impossible to swap into any others. Got it to the exhaust shop to weld a bracket on and the exhaust together. Would have done myself but it wasn't worth renting a bottle of argon to only do two small welds
Then got it the Polo Whisperer, Gavin, to get rid of the airbag light, which was unusual because my OBD11 scanner couldn't access any modules, was completely locked out and the engine was running super rich. Stage 2 APR be doing it
Poor 2nd gear (

Went for a roadworthy on Friday and they wanted me to change the lower rear bushings because they had small tears in them... I have a receipt showing they were replaced 60k kms ago... Hence why I didn't bother checking them ahahahahahaha... Oh well...
Machine the front rotors and replace pads
They complained my rear seatbelt didn't retract at all
They just got it stuck between the headrest and the seat, I lifted that now so they can't fail it again 😂
And I never checked the washer system, and I did 5 mins before the Roady ahaha, motor was just blown so replaced that


Whilst in the efforts of having the front bumper off the car, I thought I might start planning the intercooler for the other car. Only a downpipe is left and the car can run stage 2 comfortably.
So organised the reverse S3 intake manifold from Sambb <3 should come soon

Max intercooler size that can fit in the space be 500x300x76, there are better options in 450
My main enquiry being
What brand/type of intercooler should I get for the best outcome? I do want one in black though so it doesn't stand out.

Then, should I upgrade my existing 'turbo to intercooler' line to 3"? Or just 2.5"
Sadly enough when I did the test I couldn't get 3" silicone through from the power steering/washer bottle to out the front of the battery because the headlight clip and battery bottom being in the way. Any ideas? Run 2.5" the entire route? More I think about it, that might be the best option.

Then relocating the MAF? sensor that's on the stock intercooler, does it have to be extended and travel across the car to the passenger side? Or should a provision be made for it to fit in on the driver side?

Any input would be appreciated
Cheers )

[sambb]

I think 3 inch is pretty big. I think at any powers that are going to far exceed the capabilities of a FWD chassis, that 2.5in is going to be plenty enough and like you say you're going to run into packaging constraints pretty quickly anything bigger than that. A battery relocation to the boot or just changing to a physically smaller battery mounted towards the back of the factory battery tray will allow you to get the pipe work up though there.
The MAF sensor is post airfilter and will stay that way ie upstream of any pipes that introduce air back into the TIP. The MAP sensor on our Bosch ECU'd car goes pre throttle body and if you switch to a passenger side entry inlet manifold then the MAP sensor will have to go over to that side too, post intercooler/pre throttle body. If you go aftermarket plug n play ECU like a Link or Haltech then you would most likely go mafless and would have to change over to their MAP sensor meaning you would be monitoring plenum pressure ie post throttle butterfly.
As for IC design look up the "Welly" cooler. Popular in the UK as a single pass IC for VAG transverse cars but not sure if it was ever fitted to Polo's without some massaging needed. You have the choice between bar and plate or tube and fin coolers. Tube and fin are lighter with less thermal mass meaning they shed heat very well with good airflow but will heatsoak quickly without it - not much thermal inertia. An example is my SEAT sport IC which will let inlet air temps hit nearly 70 degrees in traffic pretty scarily quickly, but will shed that heat back out quickly once you get moving. Even with an IC external water spray and having a manual override on both radiator fans, I can sit in a hillclimb start queue and watch the inlet air temps just climb and climb. I dont think a bar n plate would let temps rise as rapidly. Bar n Plate are built heavier inherently and have higher thermal mass/ thermal inertia so can 'absorb' a certain amount of soaked heat before passing it on to the inlet air. Theyll be less prone to heatsoak in low flow situations eg street/drag/hillclimb but maybe not as efficient as a tube n fin when howling around a track with sustained airflow sailing through the core. Depends what you want to use the car for really.

[h100vw]

2.5 inch pipework is plenty for the k03s or even a hybrid. Mine are still stock diameter