Eddy's Sub-frame hanger bolt cam sleeves

[Bullet Fast]

Hoyhoy.

I think I know what you are referring to, the idea is to leave the pressed steel supports bolts on the body a bit loose.
The original spanners were thinner which overcame any hassles, 99% of the time you can adjust the cam & then tighten cam bolt with out the cam moving, then tighten the pressed steel support body bolts.
Or ya can grind the spanner down to make it thinner.
The front ones are harder because you need a socket to adjust the cam, like I have said before the wheel alignment can take some time, but ya won't be sorry.
P.S. Don't over ream the hole or have the cam too tight.
P.S. No-2, I would say that because you couldn't fit the cam in, means that you may have had a moving sub frame, if so you'll be shocked at the difference after this.

Thanks eddy. It looks the business, I expect a noticeable difference. There's certainly some marks on subframe that would indicate a shift whilst the subframe was bolted in.

[TDIfan]

Hoyhoy.

It could happen.

Oh man please make it happen

Been away for a while and look what have I missed

[Bullet Fast]

Hoyhoy.

We went for the two flat ones because their a bit thin, even though they are high tensile.
The rear ones can bend a bit because of a support plate going over the top of the cam sleeve.

Eddy,

Please see attached. You may recognise the original image. please excuse my ghastly finder painting. I hope it carries my meaning.



I've put the eccentrics in at A.

The support plates are about to go back in but I'm wondering if you bothered to pack them out from the car body at B. Maybe 2 X 2mm washers stacked would do it, but not sure about bolt length. Did you pack washers like the yellow at arrow C?

[Eddy]

Hoyhoy.

No I didn't pack extra washers at point B, which I think is the same as the yellow C.
No harm in doing so.

[Bullet Fast]

Hoyhoy.

No I didn't pack extra washers at point B, which I think is the same as the yellow C.
No harm in doing so.

Thanks Eddy.

So here's the result. I got an extra degree of caster both sides, and the subframe is in FT. I mean really tight.

My only remaining concerns are balancing camber and rear toe.

On camber... Well that's probably a job for the grinder... The top caps are on my hit list, and have been for ages. I just need a weekend when she isn't home. Happy wife...

Rear toe is an angrier issue. Rear beam bushes don't seem to be an issue but left rear is showing 6mm in and right is showing 2.5mm in. Toe plates ordered. But they're a fixed size and apparently correct 3mm each. At least I could balance the left and right... Maybe a little lazer cutting and surface grinding required. Easier if there was enough forum interest.

Can rear toe be balanced by shifting the front?

[rgvlee]

Have you ordered the whiteline kca310 to fix the rear toe?
They are discontinued.
I picked up a NOS set recently as I too have a toe correction to make though not as much as you.
Looking at them they should be easy to replicate in different thicknesses which is what I am going to do to get the toe perfect.

[Bullet Fast]

On the way. Found some about online.

[h100vw]

On the way. Found some about online.

Back end not bent to be that far out Pete? 6mm is heaps. Could you not move the mounts on the body to get rid of most of it?

Gavin

[Bullet Fast]

Potentially but it didn't seem a priority for the alignment guy. Maybe on the next alignment...

[rgvlee]

6mm is heaps. I think one side on mine was 2.8mm and the other was 0.5 or similar.