Wouldn't you just go for a slotted rotor, given how cheap they can be?
Has anyone here done this? If so, what pattern did you use - Porsche or AP?
Just having some fluid fade during track sessions (pedal going soft). And no, I'm not getting bigger brakes else my 14" rims won't fit.
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VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
Wouldn't you just go for a slotted rotor, given how cheap they can be?
Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.
I wouldn't suggest drilling rotors. At the rate they heat up and cool down for track sessions, which is very quickly, I've heard (and seen first hand numerous people cracking the rotors. You can have standard rotors slotted as Stuwey suggests, mine are RDA rotors than have been slotted, rather than manufactured as slotted - they are different part numbers and worked out cheaper this way. Greg at GSL recommended this so I trusted his input.
Have you looked into ducting air to your rotors?
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **![]()
You would probably have more luck trying to get better airflow to the brakes.
What brake fluid are you using & when was it last changed/flushed?
How would you drill the rotors? (I have a recollection you are a machinist or something?) I can't see any reason why you wouldn't have a go at it. All you need do is give them a good look over after every track day & look for radial cracks emanating from the drill holes.
The worst that can happen is the rotors will stuff up quicker & you can buy proper units after that.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
I've peened drill holes in the past with bike rotors which stopped them developing cracks when other people's did after about the same number of running hours. Very noisy (the peening), though and the rotors were solid so vented discs may crack from the inside.
Ducting would require more modding than I'm willing to do at this stage and slotting is more about preventing the dust and gas clogging the pad/rotor interface than cooling - holes do both.
Anyone here have any experience with the Black Diamond Drilled or Combi rotors?
Last edited by kaanage; 14-02-2012 at 09:25 PM. Reason: gas too
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
what brake fluid & age?
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
Good point - stock and 2 years (3 actually, though 1 wa spent sitting in VW storage). It will be changed before the next track outing (when my rear LCA bushes gat replaced)
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
I believe that drilling rotors that have been heat cycled is a no no?
what happens?
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
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