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Thread: DIY adjustable camber ball joints mod

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    I'm on 5/1/2 degrees of castor at the moment. Where does my 5/1/2 degrees fit against other polos??
    Dunno about Polo specs but it's much more than my Pulsar and a far bit less than my 350Z
    I would thing you're in a pretty good spot (from a castor point of view) for a FWD

    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Yeah it'd be so much easier if we didn't have the stupid strut in hub socket arrangement. My mates clio w172 has the hubs bolt onto a two bolt strut flange. You just put in an eccentric on the top hole and instantly tilt the hub top in against the strut. You get camber without adjusting the SAI at all. We are forced to move SAI when we do camber (top or bottom) which isn't ideal from a geometry standpoint and cost $$ too.
    SAI effect is low - you may loose a little steering feel but you're unlikely to notice it due to PWR steering

    Eccentrics for strut camber adjustment are not wonderful
    It's a technique originally created to fix the alignment of crashed cars - which is why the eccentric bolt is called a crash bolt
    Pretty common for eccentrics to move when hammering curbs at the track
    I don't use them


    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    Notso swift - what do you reckon regarding the forces at play down at the ball joint.
    As long as you're using VW bolts & nuts it will be fine
    Oz high tensile are a bit of a joke (unless you're talking about a class 10 bolt)
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  2. #22
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    sorry your last post came through as I was typing mine. I'm on 5/1/2 castor. If these joints give me more than that - say 6.5 degrees, then there wouldn't be the need for camber numbers >2 degrees considering the need to get power down uphill with an open diff yeah?

  3. #23
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    was going to use same diameter bolts as standard in 10.9.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    From what I can gather , by running higher profile sidewalls eg 205/50/15 my forward traction would be less sensitive to excessive camber as opposed to say 40/17's with the same camber. Do you reckon I could get away with more than 2 degrees doing hillclimbs considering the profile of A050's that I run, without hurting power down.
    So many variables to think about - LOL!

    Number one - I would absolutely stick with 15", no question about it
    The increased weight of the 17's will hurt acceleration and braking and gyro effects
    The USA SCCA guys racing under 2L FWD all run 15" for these reasons

    If you go higher sidewall you will get more cornering slip angles and roll over distortion
    It will force you to need even more negative camber
    So again - stick with 205/50/15
    Goodyear F1A2 or a Toyo Proxy R888R both have very stiff sidewalls

    I have not used a A050 but I am well aware it's a high end R spec tyre
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    was going to use same diameter bolts as standard in 10.9.
    I would feel safe, all good
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    sorry your last post came through as I was typing mine. I'm on 5/1/2 castor. If these joints give me more than that - say 6.5 degrees, then there wouldn't be the need for camber numbers >2 degrees considering the need to get power down uphill with an open diff yeah?
    Correct - the more castor you have the less camber you will want for
    At 5 & 1/2 you're doing well, if you get 6 or more it will be your shout at the bar!

    I forgot about the open diff
    When you start using -3 or more you can't accelerate early,
    cos the inside wheel will just spin up,
    you have to wait until the lean comes off the car which is often well past the apex - it can be really frustrating

    This leads into another point - with an open diff you should be very aware of suspension droop
    You need good droop to keep the inside tyre on the ground
    With stock shocks there is nothing you can change but if you ever switch to adjustable coil overs you need to set them up for excellent droop
    Last edited by Martin; 26-07-2016 at 11:20 AM.
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    Depends

    I ran -1.75 degrees on my Skoda Octavia for a few years of daily street driving
    This made a huge difference to turn in performance and it did result in some featuring of the inside edge
    I could also brake deep into a corner, turning and braking at the same time, it was incredible
    (I have supaloy control arms - much like the Audi TT)

    But from a motorsport point of view -1.75 is nothing
    Thanks Martin, agree with your points. Yeah my comments are very much directed at a track centric car whereby the compromises on the street are worth it. #becauseracecar

    Sam, sorry mate I can't recall what my camber settings are. I know I've got the LCA bushes for increased castor and my KMAC tops are camber/castor adjustable... but no idea of the numbers.
    Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
    Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
    Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
    ** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by seangti View Post
    #becauseracecar
    Yeah mate - love having a track/race car to play with
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  9. #29
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    Looking at your original post and the following thread discussion (which is all good man cave stuff),
    I've had two thoughts.

    1) Using the TT ball joints, has that resulted in the ball joint being higher than the original unit?
    If the answer is yes that would be positive!
    It would enable you to lower the car by the same distance and not suffer any negative suspension geometry consequences

    2) Wheel offsets for wider track?
    If you were able to try a wheel with a 10mm less offset (than stock) that would give you 20mm wider track
    It would give you better grip and reduce understeer
    (Likely to result in scrub and additional steering feedback - both minimal)
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
    APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
    APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
    Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

  10. #30
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    I must admit looking at the joint that it might end up improving the roll centre. I've taken measurements of all my lower control arm/ball joint pivots relative to the ground so i'll be able to see if the ball joint position has improved geometry - hopefully I'm very lucky with that one. At the moment I'm just hoping big time that the ball joint will even fit the hub though!

    Funny you should say that. Last time out I ran for the first time with 20mm spacers on the front and 12mm on the rear. Going by feel after trying a few widths I'm pretty certain its out in positive scrub land now and the steering didn't suffer at all, lots more feel, it didn't wander excessively under brakes and the cornering G's were way above what I'd normally be able to do. If these joints move the hub out 10mm then I'll be looking at a 30mm each side at the front = total 60mm track increase + i'll have some camber. Muy excited so really hope this doesn't fall flat.

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