Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Diverter Valve - Do I need one

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    25
    Thread Starter

    Hey guys

    thanks for all the feedback...i have heard stories of the factory valve being faulty from reading other posts on this forum.

    however, im one of those people who like to do things once...and once only so im leaning toward that if it is indeed in the shop I might as well get them to do it at the same time.

    I like the APR one only because it needs no servicing etc and that really appeals to me.

    Also guys I dont know if you remember my previous posts about crunching during spirited changes from 2nd to 3rd but im chaning the gearbox oil and engine mount. Which oil is the best?? does the redline oil have a particular product code ??

    cheers

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    PJ/Selangor, Malaysia
    Posts
    98
    Quote Originally Posted by mozzzy_2000 View Post
    I tried buying my APR DV1 from the USA but no one would sell one to me because they all pointed to the fact that APR Australia sells them here and they were not permited to sell them to me. Or thats the somewhat convoluted excuse they gave me. True story.
    This is actually correct. It's a matter of policy for APR not to do this for warranty, support, etc etc.

    Guy may actually get in trouble if someone bought the DV from overseas and then went back to APR to complain about a faulty unit.

    I think Guy can probably give a better answer for this. But just be aware that you are on your own if you purchase it over the net.

    All things said and done, this is a good upgrade. what mozzzy_2000 said is correct. I too experience the same effects and I love it.

    The Redline oil that most of the folks here use is ok but after some spirited driving in hot weather, I find the oil seems to "thin" and the gearbox feels like I'm stirring rocks in a bowl of porridge (a term my friend coined up!).

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,756
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by hotcar1600 View Post
    Also guys I dont know if you remember my previous posts about crunching during spirited changes from 2nd to 3rd but im chaning the gearbox oil and engine mount. Which oil is the best?? does the redline oil have a particular product code ??
    cheers
    The full name for the Redline oil is Redline MTL... It cost's about $45 a 1L bottle from Bursons, or about $12 USD off ECS tuning...Why we pay such an exorbitant price is beyond me.
    "If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058
    Its not that bad, I think Jmac and Performance Lub do it cheaper

    Performance Lub link

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    133
    Seems the OP has his answer, so I thought I might steal the thread a little.

    On a stock Polo will changing the DV give the same benefits you guys have mentions for a tuned Polo? Also using either a Forge (or the ebay copy) will it make the "BOV" noise? I wouldn't mind a small bit of noise, but don't want to be going crazy, lol.

    Thanks

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    sunshine coast
    Posts
    1,194
    on a stock turbo it might make a bit of noise but on a chipped polo it makes a lil more (higher boost pressure ) . as far as a stock car is with a stock diverter valve , its fine. the germans make there cars pretty good from factory when factory tuned and only tend to go a bit out the window if people either a/ thrash the living daylights out of them or b/ tune them. hope this helps. also its also worth noting make sure you get a semi atmospheric bov as the fully atmospheric will send you into limp mode. as for the noise , its noticable but if your after a scooby or a skyline "woosh" then to take a line out of the movie "the castle" ...."tell him hes dreamin"
    Last edited by mikepologti; 24-03-2010 at 03:05 AM.
    " I wait I resolution derive pleasure this " latest spammer post

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058
    Agree with Mike.

    You can get a noise from the Forge / Ebay style ones, but not the same as the ricer BOV.

    The upgrade is to work with higher boost levels, so not really usefull on a stock car.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,114
    i would grab a Bailey, GFB or Forge followed by APR's .. They would be my order and from experience i would myself personally stick to a bailey and gfb from using about 7 different ones testing/dyno'ing etc.

    The oem ones will eventually leak and also not hold the boost properly as mentioned.
    What’s behind you doesn’t matter..

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    25
    Thread Starter
    Hey Guys,

    Thought I would provide an update if anyone is interested!!

    I have had the chip in for about two weeks now and I must say the improvement has been vast!! The extra power is what this car should have been like standard. Now I want more power. One thing I definately have noticed is that the power of the car does vary much more in hot weather etc, much more noticable than before, nonetheless Im not complaining!!

    In terms of diverter valve, the shop that installed the chip said mine wasn't faulty and they either work or they done. Im not convinved though, I think the boost does fluctuate a little and it does have a noticable surge when coming on and off the throttle violently!! i think that will be my next modification!!

    I also got the engine mount done but I must say that I still am having gearbox probelms when shifting into third! I did chenge the oil over but when I suggerested an organince oil I recieved a dumbfounded look by the shop. Im thinking I will just buy the oil and give it a try myself as Jmac has suggested. I will search the forums and see where and how to do this myself.

    All in all though I am quite happy with how smooth the power is!! I want more now though .

    Thought I might add that I also installed a BMC filter and Seat Intake hose - the difference I find is that it brethes and pulls slightly harder in the top end with an ever so slightly reduced amount of torque down low. Bang for your buck though it makes the chip look invincible!!

    Cheers
    Last edited by hotcar1600; 08-04-2010 at 11:57 AM.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058

    Quote Originally Posted by hotcar1600 View Post
    In terms of diverter valve, the shop that installed the chip said mine wasn't faulty and they either work or they done. Im not convinved though, I think the boost does fluctuate a little and it does have a noticable surge when coming on and off the throttle violently!! i think that will be my next modification!!

    I also got the engine mount done but I must say that I still am having gearbox probelms when shifting into third! I did chenge the oil over but when I suggerested an organince oil I recieved a dumbfounded look by the shop. Im thinking I will just buy the oil and give it a try myself as Jmac has suggested. I will search the forums and see where and how to do this myself.
    Hey mate, good to see you are enjoying the car.

    The diverter valve isn't just about working or not working. There are 2 functions to the diverter: 1, when vacum is applied (managed by ECU) the Diverter bleeds off boost. This can be done to help keep the boost in the mapped sweet spot, but is regualted more by the N75 Valve. The second function is more relevant to an upgaded car: If enough pressure is applied to the diafram / mechanism, the valve opens, allowing pressurised air to be recirculated (mostly lost). The amount of boost the valve can hold is a function of its design. I don't think the stock ones can reliably hold 17 or more PSI, so it may have been bleeding off the spike of boost or maybe holding up fine for the time being.

    You got the ebay one? Which spring are you using? if the tension / spring is set too hard, it can create a jerky response when coming off throttle.

    More power is not the easiest thing to achieve after the Chip. There are little ways to gain a bit more, but TBH, it gets expensive for little gain.

    The stock SMIC gets heatsoaked pretty easily. The FMIC (based on my fininds with the Forge unit and research) will not add much power, but will keep the power you have when the system is cool. When the turbo gets hot, the little SMIC can not keep up.

    Which Chip? APR? If so, it might be worth resetting the tune with the new components so the enging can addapt to the new parts. Its not going to be night and day, but a good idea IMO.

    In relation to the surge, the intake should help smooth this out, but this seems very dependant on the tune and car. Some people have found that by changing the N76 valve to a different version (eg N75-J) that the car boosts more smoothly, harder or other sublties. I found the FMIC made a difference as well, not sure why TBH.

    Sucks about the gearbox, I'd go with the redline...

    And as I keep preaching, Vag-com is your friend. You can see a lot of whats going on with your car when you log it, easy to see if its doing everything it should or may help point out a potential issue keeping you from making the most of your toy.

    This picture may help a little:


    Taken from this thread on Vortex: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothrea...111538&page=23
    Last edited by noone; 08-04-2010 at 01:17 PM.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |