Yes it was.
Nice result , I do have to ask , does the sensor for the IT get placed in the throttle body ?
Yes it was.
Excellent results, Shane ... must get over and see you some time.
Cheers,
Dave
Ok , so the sensor for the air intake gets placed in the throttle body , once again the dyno readings have been changed for the benefit of the customer .
The Intake air temp probe should be placed in front of the car and not in the intake . If you place it in the intake how are you going to measure the intercooler efficiency when the correction factors of the dyno are going to cancel out any gains you make ? If Shaneth was to fit an intercooler his result will be similar to what they are now , I know it will change the a/f ratio as well but thats another story and that should be addressed by the tuner !
I thought this would give some good reading for those who actually have half a clue on how a dyno works :
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/archive/...p/t-58222.html
For those that dont I've taken some extracts from the threads , and yes Todd is a dyno builder/operator ! :
An example of the shortfalls of this style of correction is where recently a discrepancy of over 500RWHP was induced (possibly due to a faulty sensor, at a much publicised Dyno contest), and an Inlet Air Temp of over 200Deg C was recorded, resulting in a Correction Factor of over 40%.This means 1000RWHP suddenly becomes 1400RWHP!
providing there is not a large difference between the Inlet and Ambient Temp.
It is much better (in my opinion) to run with correction than with none at all, this means that if you go back to where you were tested before on a day that had quite different Weather Conditions compared to when you were first tested, you should get very similar results, this is on the proviso the car has not changed.
Pretty easy on a DD , place the temp probe 3 feet in front of the car so it reads the same air the engine actually sees rather than a bull**** overcompensated figure
and the air temp sensor is directly in the path of the fan (as Delco says)
To put it simply , a dyno has correction factors so you have the same results no matter what the temperature/elavation . Im sure one day someone will do a mod (front mount / downpipe etc) and find they have lost power . This will be due to inconsistant readings from previous dyno's !
Sorry to change the original topic of the thread
And so it begins.....
"If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."
I'm stoked that Shane went the route he did, and it really paid off. He was extremely helpful when I was looking at my reflash, we discussed the pros and cons of all the reflashes we could find(I even emailed Power Chip!!) and even in the face of another tuners product at that workshop, he didn't do the whole"...are you sure you want this one??" or "...man, you know this product delivers the power with much more blah blah..." Hey even put up with my scary driving in Brisbane peak traffic(Are you sure that gap is big enough?? You know it!!!)!!
Taking the route less traveled has really worked out well, and I think more people will start looking at it.
At the end of the day, its horses for courses, and this one suits Shane well, just as my flash works for what I want, and so on and so forth.
"If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."
Sorry, wasn't baggining you out about how the dyno works, I learned some more that I didn't know, but just the was you went about the whole dyno thing in the first place was kind of dissapointing, and going out to poo poo someone elses dyno sheet(not on this occation, but we all know the one) in the first place was pretty low and sad. And with the above, we were all just waiting for it...
Last edited by Blitzen; 12-01-2009 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Needed to clarify what i said.
"If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."
Bookmarks