Obviously you guys will have bled the hell out of them so unlikely to be air in the system. But ABS systems are notorious for trapping air that is a bitch to get out, pressure bleeding is the only guaranteed method.
Fire wall flex is unlikely due to the design of the hardware, and Sam's experience seems to confirm that.
Boosters are often an issue on turbo charged cars as they work best on vacuum and not so well on boost. Check if there is a boost versus vacuum difference in the brake pedal feel.
Lastly master cylinder size, it was common practise to "under size" the master cylinder to give more progression in the pedal effort with ABS systems 10+ years ago. This results in a "long pedal" that can be vague, especially approaching the traction limit. Tyres are almost always the limiting factor in braking, it's very unusual to find a road car in the last 20 years that can't generate 1g under brakes, that's why ABS systems were invented, to help overcome tyre deficiencies. Upgraded braking systems are for performance consistency and longevity. Hence often don't give an instantaneous improved in braking G forces, unless the tyres and suspension are upgraded to cope with the increased braking performance.
For combo road and track cars I have in the past increased the master cylinder bore size to give a more solid pedal feel. Of course this means more effort required in pushing the pedal but with a boosted system that's hardly an issue. Knowledge of the bore sizes of compatible master cylinders might be of use, if you can find one with similar configuration with a larger bore then that will benefit the pedal feel.
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
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