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Thread: Braaaakes

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    739

    Why for???? Where to now??
    Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2,344
    If you are talking to me lol

    I have already gone bigger to the ECS 332mm's
    MODS- TOO MANY

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury, NSW
    Posts
    741
    Users Country Flag
    Hey guys haven't read this thread in a while - I import parts from Europe so can help you out if needs be. I've helped countless forum members now. Also really can't see why everyone's so agaisnt going to a bigger disc - there is no noticeable difference in the weight of my stock worn out discs compared to the new 312mm brembos :/ when I held the 312mm I was shocked by the weight, but it's the same as the stock ones? :/

    Anyways I've got my kit on now, just need to find the torque figures for all the bolts before I test them out - any one know? Mainly just calliper bolts really.
    2019 132TSI Tiguan
    2011 Audi S4 Wagon
    1988 MK1 Caddy
    2006 Polo GTI

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury, NSW
    Posts
    741
    Users Country Flag
    Also anyone looking into this upgrade take into consideration the one thing I forgot - the bloody pad wear indicator warning light and chime! I've already disabled the seat belt chime - so was pretty annoyed when I heard this new one due to me not modifying the Porsche wear indicator to the existing VW one.

    VWVortex.com - DIY: How to get around the brake pad wear indicator - change light lamp warning

    Thank god I can use VCDS to recode it
    2019 132TSI Tiguan
    2011 Audi S4 Wagon
    1988 MK1 Caddy
    2006 Polo GTI

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058

    Braaaakes

    Sure, or short the pad indicator wires. If the circuit is closed, all good.

  6. #26
    Ordering the upgraded slotted rotors and A1RM pads tomorrow.
    I remember reading somewhere that you need to pack a surface with copper grease to stop the brake pads from rattling.. Can anyone elaborate on that?
    Also, can anyone recommend a workshop in Northside Brissy to flush the brake system with the new fluid by machine? I'll prob get them to fit up the braided lines and flush it all at the same time.
    Polo GTI MY2008
    Build Thread
    136.09kW and 305.28Nm torques, Dynapack Hub Dyno

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058
    Copper grease between the piston and pad. Copper grease rocks, I use it on my sway bar bushes as well does not shift easily.

    Jmac has a theory to the order of bleeding, cant remember but seems to be the best way. Hope he chimes in.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    899
    Users Country Flag

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    2,214
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by noone View Post
    Copper grease between the piston and pad. Copper grease rocks, I use it on my sway bar bushes as well does not shift easily.

    Jmac has a theory to the order of bleeding, cant remember but seems to be the best way. Hope he chimes in.
    Yep polo's are in reverse

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    193

    Quote Originally Posted by VWindahouse View Post
    Yep polo's are in reverse
    How/why so? I've got a power bleeder and have done mine in the conventional sequence several times with no problems.

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