Car definately has a misfire now. Have hit the go pedal pretty hard a few times since I got it. plugs & coils may be suffering.
Going to replace plugs and get upgraded coilpacks at the same time just to rule out ignition.
Fuel filter, Air filter, oil and filter also on the todo list. may wait until its time for the timing belt and do the whole lot at once to save multiple disassemblies.
@lenny
Dogbone Mount SPF2907-70K (superpro)
Std Replacement Front lower control arm bush, Rear, SPF3271K (Superpro)
Alex
Just another quick update. Tackled the door locks today, passenger one fixed by cleaning the microswitch for the door open/closed.
drivers door not so easy fix, the motor inside the door lock itself is so weak it can barely turn when powered out of the lock using a lab supply. so it looks like im gonna be looking for a new drivers door lock mech.. yay.
(tried to upload happy snaps but the forum says no.... )
Alex
Can loan you a tuned ecu if you're interested? Stage 1.
@h100vw to be honest have already been thinking of grabbing a s/h ECU and sending it to you for a stage 1.
would need SAI delete too. is secondary O2 delete possible to forego engine check light if I do a catless dump? (I havent actually looked if theres a secondary O2 sensor. duh.)
Being in WA makes it hard to send an ECU for tuning, looking at a week turnaround even by express post. :/
Alex.
Just put a cat in it. Have you got a VCDS lead? Hex+Can? I can loan you the stage 1 ecu and bench in a base file for stage 2. You need not be off the road.
@hw100vw
Nah no VCDS yet. only have autocom+/delphi and the usual bluetooth dongles.
I'm pretty run off my feet at the moment with work, when I have some personal time i'll talk to you about it in more detail.
Alex.
RE the tensioner, you'll have to remove the existing stud that the tensioner/roller is on. Its threaded into the head so you'll need to snug up two nuts against one another and back it out. This is because its a 10mm thread in the head but an 8mm thread where it protrudes. The manual tensioner roller you've bought uses a 10mm stud (along its entire length) which is why the one you'll get in the kit replaces the OE one. Watch the vid on youtube that IE has on manual tensioning. Important for correct tensioning direction of the roller and also how much belt twist to set it at. Doing a belt with the manual tensioner is so easy compared to the stock arrangement.
thanks for the reply sam.
After owning cars with manual tensioners for the entire time i've had my license I understand them much better, therefore feel much more comfortable with it than the hydraulic one. I dont know how often the hydraulic units fail, but one failure would be enough of a headache.
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