If i were you, i go ahead with the APR downpipe as the tune was made with it.
Unless you don't care about performance...
I know a few of you here have a aftermarket exhaust/dump pipe. I am looking at either doing a exhaust or just the dump pipe, depending on cost.
I want to know does the aftermarket exhaust or dump pipe cause the idiot light in the dash to come on or show fault codes in VAG COM?
The cat I would like to use is Metal Cat (see link below), but do I need a specific type of cat to prevent the idiot light coming on?
My car is APR chipped on V1.
http://www.metalcat.com.au/
???? ..... Other aftermarket quality downpipes have been proven to deliver the same and in same cases better performance than the APR downpipe.
Many users on this forum uses other DPs and I don't know of any that used a quality cat that gets a check light.
The secret is in using a quality cat as the rest is just plain stainless bent tubing anyway.
Current: 2023 MY23 T-Roc R Lapiz Blue + Beats Audio + Black pack 2018 MY19 Golf R manual Lapiz Blue + DAP) 2018 MY18 Golf 110TSI (150TSI) Trendline manual White2014 Amarok TSI Red (tuned over 200kw + lots of extras) 2013 Up! manual Red 2017 Polo GTI manual Black Previous VWs and some others ...
Yep you're right but for me there are 3 ways to go as Milltek, APR and custom but i thought that the best is always to stick to the tune maker.
So if you choose APR go APR, isn't it the best thing to do ?
Maybe i was a little generous in my post but it can be explained coz i have no way here in NC to go with one of these aftermarket brand or custom made...
The APR is a custom downpipe, if things go wrong I know there is a reputable brand name backing the product...peace of mind is important for me, local knowledgable contacts and support.
By going for a name brand you are also paying just for the name. In most cases the brand name is associated with quality, thats why people buy brand names.
But in some cases, such as an exhaust, it could be just as good or even better if you go for a custom made one. The guys who make the custom exhausts specialise in just exhausts. So I have no second thoughts about going custom I just want to know that the car will be happy with it.
As for support you can always go back to the exhaust shop if there are any problems. For me I think that would be easier since the nearest APR dealer is on the otherside of Sydney.
My local exhaust shop quoted me $5,500 for a replica custom made stainless steel eqivelant of the APR system...hmmm...downpipe and hiflo cat alone was 2k...no thanks. I'm sure someone out there would do it for less but Quattro motors (APR in WA) are a walk around the corner from me. One of the very few mechs I'd trust my car too...
Geez, $5500. I got my 3" custom downpipe fitted for only $350 and if I wanted the rest of the exhaust done (2.5") would only be a further $600 - all stainless steel. You dont need to change the factory cat, just only have to enlarge the entry and exit. This will also stop any fault codes from popping up.
APR'ed V2, 18", BMC CDA. 3" Custom Downpipe, Forge TIP/Diverter Valve. Coming soon: getting my FMIC fitted, KO4!!
Sorry dude, but it's located way on the other side of the country from where you are - as in Newcastle, NSW about 160km north of Sydney.
The results are unbelievable, it gets to redline very quickly and holds power all the way there! But having a few others mods as stated in my sig. helps also.
APR'ed V2, 18", BMC CDA. 3" Custom Downpipe, Forge TIP/Diverter Valve. Coming soon: getting my FMIC fitted, KO4!!
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