Originally Posted by
sambb
Just thought I'd let you know mate that the traction controls' throttle cut was successfully cancelled on my car. So if you don't press the 'ESP' button on the dash (which is really just a traction control on/off button), thereby leaving the traction control in its default on position, there now will be no throttle cut but the EDL brake modulation which is factory active below 40km/h is still active. From what I could glean from the tuner, as far as he could see it was a situation where the throttle cut could only be fully on or fully off. We'd been hoping that it could remain in place but have its influence damped down so that it would actually be functional but not so, so it was removed altogether. His concern with killing off the throttle cut was that in wheel spin conditions the ECU might chuck a wobbly and not seeing the rpm arrested as suddenly as it would like, might jam on the EDL braking even more to get the wheelspin into a window it was happy with. I haven't been able to test it from a standing start but if I give it a bit in second up a hill in the wet I can feel the EDL braking working away to maintain traction (which is exactly what I wanted) , but then once you get above that 40km/h threshold you can feel the braking drops out and if you don't have your right foot in the right spot then the wheelspin will increase again. I'm cool with that considering that I'll be on R spec tyres with a lot more grip when I'm on the track, and in the wet I would not normally be that ham fisted with the throttle - I was just doing that to test it. Who knows it may be worth exploring to see if the EDL brake modulation can have its threshold moved up to say 60km/h which would make it pretty functional for the wet I think. For sure its going to need more testing and definitely I need to see how it reacts from standing starts (which is the whole reason why I wanted it). The idea there was that I might be able to launch with higher rpm so that the car isn't as prone to bogging if you only drop say 500rpm from where you should be when you release the clutch, and also I think that the braking will help keep the torsen diff locked. These diffs need torque running through them for the diff to be able to apportion drive so if the braking can keep a wheel that is tending towards free spin attached, then hopefully the diff will stay more consistently 'locked' and not do that left to right switching as it chases each wheel that lets go in succession like it does with the ESP button off.
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