Don't wait, don't care - drive it like you stole it
50 degrees C
Between 50 and 80 degrees C
Between 80 and 95 degrees C
More than 95 degrees C
It all depends if I'm in a hurry or not
Hehe so a highly strung, pushed to the limit F1 engine has what exactly in common with a Golf engine?
This is true but unless you keep cars for 10yrs, whats the point of being paranoid? After getting out of the garage and a around a few corners, drive it like you stole it. I always have, whether the cars made it to 5yrs old is another story but not my problem. I buy my cars for me to have fun, not the next bloke. But in saying that, if the servicing is done according to the required sheduled with hard/short driving then I don't see any harm being done.
Might be a bit misleading. I voted don't wait, don't care but living in a court and speedhumps in the next street, its probably a min or 2 before I get onto a road where I can start flogging it. Not looking at any temps though, so I guess it counts all the same.
Last edited by dave_r; 01-09-2010 at 12:34 PM.
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Actualy quite a lot, they both run dissimilar metals internaly and moving parts are kept apart by a thin layer of oil.
For example, take the big end you have a thin cup of brass/copper/aluminium alloy which expands much more and much faster then the solid crank journal it supports, as it expands the gap between them changes, in extreme cases to the point the oil can no longer maintain its film and suddenly you have metal to metal contact between two parts rotating against one another at 3000+ RPM - not so good I'd have thought!
An engine is designed to operate at a temperature, all the tollerances are set to work at that temperature - running it hard outside of those WILL damage it. Sorry thats just simple physics. In many ways modern engines are much better, and oil technology is way ahead of where it was 10 - 15 years ago, but engines these days also contain a bigger range of metals all running at tighter tollerances, so if anything they are MORE suseptable to damage running outside of optimum temperature.
You are correct that the stresses on an F1 engine are way above anything a GTI will ever see, they might be using Beryllium to cast their blocks and might be playing with Carbon Fibre pistons, but a GTI engine of today would have amazed an F1 team 30 years ago - and they warmed them up back then too.
If you spend $45K on a car, drive it how you like, but anyone who thinks it isn't damaging it to flog it cold is kidding themselves.
Its here!
I'm struggling here guys. I've read TFM backwards, tried every combination of MFD displays, but I cannot seem to get a readout of oil temp on my MFD (118TSI). Is it not applicable to the 118 or am I missing something?
All helpful criticism will be absorbed with thanks.
Brian
Current drive:2016 Golf GTI 40 Years in Pure White
Volkswagen clearly advise against thrashing a cold engine:
On page 159 of the manual for the118TSI it says "Notice - When the engine is cold you should avoid high engine speeds, driving at full throttle and over loading the engine"
On page 240 there is a picture of the coolant temperature gauge that defines coolant temperatures below 70 deg as 'cold'
On page 19 in the description of the rev counter it says that the maximum rpm can be used "...when the engine is warm and after it has been run in properly"
This doesn't mean it has to be babied either, but there iis a big difference between brisk acceleration up to 4000 RPM and 3/4 throttle such as needed if you have to merge onto a main road vs foot to the floor and into the red-line.
I give up. If you guys won't listen to an extremely knowledgable person, WITH credentials (Transporter) and are still arguing, there's no hope for you.
It's your car, so i don't really care. I doubt i'll be buying it off you second hand. The only reason most people know anything about cars is the internet, and some of them seem to think that the little they've read (and pretend to understand) makes them an expert.
Good luck to you.
Oh, and FYI, as a hole heats up, it expands, it doesn't contract. So your crank journal to big end analogy doesn't work, Beaker. If the rod gets hotter than the crank, the clearance increases, not decreases. And there are no "simple" physics in an internal combustion engine, mate. Believe me.
Last edited by Preen59; 01-09-2010 at 07:38 PM.
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What about if you stick to using the supercharger without over-revving when it's cold?
Just before you give up, as I am not really fussed what people do with their engines either. But I must correct something your said earlier:
Aircraft engines are not under full load straight away? Prudent pilots warm their engines up. Apart from common sense, owing to there being more at stake, manufacturers require them to do so. I am yet to meet a pilot who starts an aircraft engine from cold and immediately subjects it to full power. It is just not the done thing.
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