Sump Plugs - some dealers don't replace them

[prise]

Just out of interest, when you replaced the plug, how much oil came out & what did you do with that oil? Do you regard yourself as a "suitably qualified person" to carry out the operation of removing or replacing the sump plug?

I did the oil change myself - I'm an aero/mech engineer with 20+ years of experience, knowledge of the procedure as written by VW and in posession of the correct tools including a calibrated torque wrench so the short answer is yes. As for the oil - our local council accepts it for a small fee at the local waste disposal facility.

I have seen for myself in the aircraft industry the effect that galvanic corrosion can have - it doesn't require ferrous metals, just two metals with different galvanic potentials in electrical contact with each other and an electrolyte (eg water). I doubt that it would be a problem for most vehicles in Australia given we don't salt the roads, but doing the change myself I felt it necessary to adhere meticulously to the procedure specified in erwin.

The use of a copper washer is potentially an issue in the long term (outside the warranty period) for owners that live near the surf (now theres a problem I'd like to have!) due to the salt present. The likely sympton will be pitting of the aluminium sump material in the vicinity of the plug.

[prise]

I somehow doubt that Volkswagen would endorse its dealers using a Copper washer unless it was up to the manufacturer’s high standard.

Dermot,

I have no doubt that VW have high standards in this area as evidenced by the care taken with a sacrificial coating on the plug. However can you confirm that a copper washer VW-N0138492 is endorsed by VW for use on a 118TSI vehicle? Its a genuine part no doubt but is it the correct part for this vehicle?

[Banzai]

Is replacing the sump plug a VW thing? I have never heard of a recommendation to replace sump plugs at oil changes on any other car. Washers yes, but never plugs.

I've had cars with all combinations of plugs (alloy, plain and passivated steel), sumps (alloy and pressed steel) and washers (aluminium, copper, fibre and no washer at all) and the only problem I've ever heard of was people overtightening plugs in alloy sumps and stripping the thread or forgetting to tighten the plug properly and it backing out. I've had quarter million mile (not km) engines with original plugs and no problems. I've also been known to re-use washers a couple of times with no ill effects.

[goodfella]

I am doing an oil change on my Bora tomorrow and I am replacing the plug with an ECS Magnetic Plug with copper.

If anyone wants one I am selling a few, PM for details.

[brad]

I did the oil change myself - I'm an aero/mech engineer with 20+ years of experience, knowledge of the procedure as written by VW and in posession of the correct tools including a calibrated torque wrench so the short answer is yes. As for the oil - our local council accepts it for a small fee at the local waste disposal facility.

I have seen for myself in the aircraft industry the effect that galvanic corrosion can have - it doesn't require ferrous metals, just two metals with different galvanic potentials in electrical contact with each other and an electrolyte (eg water). I doubt that it would be a problem for most vehicles in Australia given we don't salt the roads, but doing the change myself I felt it necessary to adhere meticulously to the procedure specified in erwin.

The use of a copper washer is potentially an issue in the long term (outside the warranty period) for owners that live near the surf (now theres a problem I'd like to have!) due to the salt present. The likely sympton will be pitting of the aluminium sump material in the vicinity of the plug.

I worked in engineering for QF for 17yrs & was a motor mech for 10yrs before that. I got a bit anal about my cars for a while & then i realised that a deviation from OEM wasn't going to cause my car to fall out of the sky & kill 400 people. So, as I said, a copper washer instead of an ally one for 7500km isn't really going to do anything in the bigger scheme of things or affect your warranty (IMO - feel free to go crazy on your own car).

BTW: You keep refering to your engine as a 118TSI but if you want to be precise, I believe it's an EA111 series, (model CAV??). VW have a couple of 118TSI engines. The other is the EA888 series (can't remember the ID code - sorry).

[Transporter]

Well I stand to be correct, but I believe the coolant used in motor vehicle engines is made up of de-ionised water, which would negate the corrosion.

That's why you can't put de-ionised water in the radiator first, prior to adding coolant concentrate. Always mix the coolant with water first before you pour it in the cooling system. Pure water is very corrosive to Aluminium.

How ever I wouldn't be worried about coper washer but...yes, aluminium washer will give more reliable seal especially on aluminium sump. On steel sumps coper washer will last longer and you don't have to replace it every time.


Hmm. what a waste, replacing drain plug every time you change the oil. I changed oil in my T5 10x and still have original drain plug and... no oil leak!
I suppose it takes less time to chuck the drain plug in the bin, then visually check the washer and sealing surface. Maybe that's safeguard for using less skilled labor for doing oil changes.

Sorry about rant!

[brad]

It does make you wonder whether VW workshops have a recycle bin for thrown away sump plug washers. A single mechanic doing just services (not uncommon in dealerships) would be doing at least 5 oil changes a day (probably 8-10). That's 1100 sump plugs a year minimum. So much for all this clean/green rubbish the auto companies keep trying to paint themselves with.

I'm not quite sure why VW don't do it like BMW - keep the plug & replace the ally crush washer.

[Transporter]

Exactly my point! Not that green, are they! Makes you really wander. The truth is, it looks great in advertising and it gets attention.

[Idle]

Or maybe they know something we don't — such as it's a cheap and nasty monkey metal item that can't be trusted not to crack up if re-used?

[prise]

You keep refering to your engine as a 118TSI but if you want to be precise, I believe it's an EA111 series, (model CAV??). VW have a couple of 118TSI engines. The other is the EA888 series (can't remember the ID code - sorry).

The engine code is CAVD.

Hey look if the dealer was doing the oil change and decided to use a copper washer I wouldn't worry (they're responsible), however as a indiviual I was happy to spend the extra $4 required to follow the procedure in erwin to the letter.