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Thread: Retrofit of RVC to MK6 Golf

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Awesome Pepe! Thats so good!
    Volkswagen Golf MkVI .:R Fully optioned, bar Recaro's & RVC CANCELLED (Sadly)

    DRIVING: 2011 Renault Megane RenaultSport 250 Cup Trophee (Fully Optioned)

  2. #72
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    Mk VI Hatch trim removal.

    I know this is largely covered in a thread on the Mk V forum, but even the diagram on Maverick's site doesn't seem to match the problem I'm having with my Mk 6.

    In a weak (senior?) moment I ordered the RVC and video cable, which has now arrived and I wanted to take the lower hatch trim out in order to start the install.

    Can anyone who's done it post a method to separate the upper and lower rear hatch trims at the bottom of the glass on a Mark 6?

    I've got mine to the point where all the lower trim clips are loose, but for the life of me I can't find what's holding the top corners just below the glass.

    I forced one apart where the two trims clip together (where the tongue on the top section comes up through the tip of the lower trim) and then found it still wouldn't come off -- it's still firmly held somewhere close to the joint between upper and lower trims, just under the glass where it's impossible to see.

    I really don't want to break anything -- would never live it down...

    Also found I no longer have the physical strength to pull some of the clips out -- had to make up a tool to squeeze some of them in from the top and ease the spring tension.

    Don't think I'm really going to enjoy this task.

    Any helpful suggestions will be more than welcome.

  3. #73
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    Feb 2009
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    Hi Idle. I merged your thread into this thread. I know you don't have a MK6 Golf R, but you're trying to achieve the same thing in a regular MK6. I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread, or in one of the "guides" linked from this thread.

    If the answer isn't, then it should be, so can someone please add it! Cheers

  4. #74
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    The MK6 trim is harder to remove than the mk5 trim. Different plastics or something I think.

    Good luck, you'll need it. They're a prick of a thing.

    As for helpfull suggestions. the only one I have is to get someone to hold the hatch up while you reef down on the trim.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idle View Post
    I know this is largely covered in a thread on the Mk V forum, but even the diagram on Maverick's site doesn't seem to match the problem I'm having with my Mk 6.

    In a weak (senior?) moment I ordered the RVC and video cable, which has now arrived and I wanted to take the lower hatch trim out in order to start the install.

    Can anyone who's done it post a method to separate the upper and lower rear hatch trims at the bottom of the glass on a Mark 6?

    I've got mine to the point where all the lower trim clips are loose, but for the life of me I can't find what's holding the top corners just below the glass.

    I forced one apart where the two trims clip together (where the tongue on the top section comes up through the tip of the lower trim) and then found it still wouldn't come off -- it's still firmly held somewhere close to the joint between upper and lower trims, just under the glass where it's impossible to see.

    I really don't want to break anything -- would never live it down...

    Also found I no longer have the physical strength to pull some of the clips out -- had to make up a tool to squeeze some of them in from the top and ease the spring tension.

    Don't think I'm really going to enjoy this task.

    Any helpful suggestions will be more than welcome.
    Hopefully this helps. This is a picture of the inside of the rear hatch trim showing the location of the 12 spring clips (red) and 2 screws (yellow) that you have to undo. The screws are T20 screws.

    Take out the access panels for the rear lights, this allows you to get your hand inside the trim and you can feel your way around inside a bit to these locations.

    If you think getting it off is fun... just wait till you try to put it back on! Bloody hell that was a pain lining up those 12 clips.


  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pepe View Post
    Hopefully this helps. This is a picture of the inside of the rear hatch trim showing the location of the 12 spring clips (red) and 2 screws (yellow) that you have to undo. The screws are T20 screws.

    Take out the access panels for the rear lights, this allows you to get your hand inside the trim and you can feel your way around inside a bit to these locations.

    If you think getting it off is fun... just wait till you try to put it back on! Bloody hell that was a pain lining up those 12 clips.

    Ahh, the joys of German engineering.
    --------------------------

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by hooba View Post
    Ahh, the joys of German engineering.
    Hmm, and at the assembly plant they install it with 1,2,3 taps on that part. Pepe straggled with it (most people would), because he was doing it for the first time.

  8. #78
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    Kew, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pepe View Post
    Hopefully this helps. This is a picture of the inside of the rear hatch trim showing the location of the 12 spring clips (red) and 2 screws (yellow) that you have to undo. The screws are T20 screws.

    Take out the access panels for the rear lights, this allows you to get your hand inside the trim and you can feel your way around inside a bit to these locations.

    If you think getting it off is fun... just wait till you try to put it back on! Bloody hell that was a pain lining up those 12 clips.

    Thank you, Pepe!

    Once I knew where the remaining clips were, the thing was off in a minute. Nothing broke, either.

    And everyone was right — all it needed was more muscle (something I'm a bit short on, these days...)

    For anyone else with a Mk 6, the TDI part fits the picture, so probably they're all the same.

    Thanks again!

  9. #79
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    just another question as I was inspecting the wires coming out of the RVC badge....

    I got 4 wires instead of 3 wires as described on eBay seller's photo of the seller's wiring instruction...
    I got 1 red, 1 yellow, 1 brown and 1 grey.

    From following the ebay seller's diagram red is +12V (which connect to the red wire on the supplied coaxial cable to RNS510),
    grey is trunk switch wiring and yellow to reverse signal. nothing mentioned about brown one... I'm roughly guessing both grey and brown is for trunk wiring???

    That aside, on the coaxial cable there is a red wire and black wire running along it, it looks like the red is to enable connecting to the fusebox at the front for permanent +12v source, but when I inspect the both end of black wire, it seem pointless to ground the black wire to anything - unless the black wire end at the RVC need to connect to 'somewhere' on the RVC? which none of cameluk's wiring diagram mentioned...

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by rs73 View Post
    just another question as I was inspecting the wires coming out of the RVC badge....

    I got 4 wires instead of 3 wires as described on eBay seller's photo of the seller's wiring instruction...
    I got 1 red, 1 yellow, 1 brown and 1 grey.

    From following the ebay seller's diagram red is +12V (which connect to the red wire on the supplied coaxial cable to RNS510),
    grey is trunk switch wiring and yellow to reverse signal. nothing mentioned about brown one... I'm roughly guessing both grey and brown is for trunk wiring???

    That aside, on the coaxial cable there is a red wire and black wire running along it, it looks like the red is to enable connecting to the fusebox at the front for permanent +12v source, but when I inspect the both end of black wire, it seem pointless to ground the black wire to anything - unless the black wire end at the RVC need to connect to 'somewhere' on the RVC? which none of cameluk's wiring diagram mentioned...
    Don't use the eBay pic as your guide in this case, you've probably got the 469 R one, whereas the one I got from the eBay guy was a 469 Q. You're better off following the Mk5 guides like Mavericks, etc.

    The brown wire is the ground, and you essentially take the ground from the connection that goes into the original badge (hence why you need one of those connectors listed). You are correct, there is no point connecting the black wire that goes with the coax cable. Just tape it down so it won't be loose around the back of your fuse box.

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