Originally Posted by
Sammy125TDi
With a hub dyno (dynopac), the cars wheels are removed and the hub itself is bolted to the car. This removes any 'gear effect' of the tyre/wheel. Its a reading that is closer to the flywheel output due to removing alot of the drivetrain loss.
A chassis dyno (dyno dynamics/mainline) is where the car is strapped to a rolling road and gives a true reading of the power delivered to the road itself. Typical drivetrain loss for FWD is 20%+, RWD 25%+ and AWD 20-30% depending on the technology.
+1
Originally Posted by
schoona
You haven't actualy hit the final drive reduction when using a hub dyno, compared to a rolling one.
There is still mechanical forces involved with wheels/tyres, as well as tyre pressures having an influence.
In any case, you don't roll on the street on your hubs do you, you roll with wheels
+1
To add to this discussion further (I have already explained the differences a while back now in another topic/page/thread - cant remember), the figures you get off a HUB dyno are waaaaaay over what they would be compared with a proper roller dyno, such as a DYNO DYNAMICS, DYNO. In fact you cant compare them as suggested.
A comparison:
A third generation WRX (2009+), {not even an STI - although they share the same turbo/motor}, will get around 150KWs at the wheels on a roller DYNO.
ECUTEK, advertise (another one of the email-a-tune tunes)that their tune will give 200-210KWs at the HUBS.
In reality, a standard WRX with an ECUtek tune will pop out around 160-175KWs at the wheels on a proper dyno.
If you managed to get 206 at the HUBS.. you have about 170 "old school/real world" kilowatts.
2010 MY11 GOLF R - 5DR | DSG | RISING BLUE | DYNAUDIO + ACC + BLUETOOTH + 19s + RNS510 |
2017 MY17 TIGUAN HIGHLINE - 5DR | DSG | PEARL BLACK | SUNROOF + DAP |
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