Mk6 Golf Acceleration & Performance Data

[REXman]

Oh man! It was working like 6 days ago?! WTF?! Make the seller pay for postage/replacement!

My 13.68 something WRX had 145KWs at the wheels.. Was a bit lighter though than the 1500kg little porker that Is the R and got it's time by snapping it off the line (which a stock DSG can't do) and I think it ran at 97MPH.

I remember that night this guy in a white STI, MY03 as well (or was it an MY02 bugeye..? So long ago..) but it was heavily worked.. Ran a 12.9 and got 104mph.

May e the constant AWD Eats away at some of the top end.. Where the Haldex shows it's worth.. Using power only when necessary!

Sort of a reverse of the GTR system.. (RWD then AWD for slippage.. But hey it's no STI/EVO system on the gravel)

[Beena]

Nope, no option there to turn on or off the DRL's.

I have an option!

[Corey_R]

Heh - cool! I'll double check again - but this is the first I've heard of such thing! Cheers

[AdamD]

Unfortunately my GTech wouldn't power on! The light on the cigarette light attachment doesn't turn on either, so I think maybe the power cable is dead. I was rather disappointed about that. I'll have to trouble shoot it so that when I got back at some point with Stage II, I can also use the GTech.

Mine's done that a couple of times too. I've noticed that the cable doesn't seat well into the back of the Gtech itself, so if you're not getting it to power on, remove the cable from the back of the Gtech, and then replace it firmly.

BTW, from memory the light on the 12v socket attachment won't illuminate unless the Gtech is actually on. It's the power light, as opposed to the "has power" light.

[Corey_R]

Yeah - I tried that, no joy. AdamD, when you get a chance, can you please let me know whether the red light on the button comes on when depressed regardless of whether the GTech is connected or not?

[AdamD]

Yeah - I tried that, no joy. AdamD, when you get a chance, can you please let me know whether the red light on the button comes on when depressed regardless of whether the GTech is connected or not?

Will do mate; will check it tonight and post back.

[dave_r]

So are we talking simply HPFP and a tune? No down pipe?

Dean said not to bother with the front/dump pipe unless doing full exhaust but if i wanted it a bit quieter to wait for the USA to get the R later in the year and do an RSC exhaust. He advised that the HPFP and CAI should be the next step to see some midrange gains.

Is there not also an option in the MFD? I'm sure I saw one there... Under Lights & Vision.

LOL yeah there is!

Corey didn't quite get your thing about LC at staging. Explain a bit better?

[Corey_R]

Dean said not to bother with the front/dump pipe unless doing full exhaust

Derek is of the opposite opinion...
Keep in mind, downpipe and the cat is a requirement for Stage II. You're still limited to Stage I without it. The HPFP adds a +, but the ability to lower the RPM at which the spooling of the turbo starts is depending on Stage II. So you can get some decent midrange gains without the HPFP and CAI!

I would be concerned with your thoughts on Stage I, about whether you would be disappointed still with Stage I+

I'm actually surprised at the number of people doing Stage I+
APR doesn't even list that on their site as an option - so I'm not sure if that's a reflection of the engineer's opinions or what to think of it.

Corey didn't quite get your thing about LC at staging. Explain a bit better?

The way a drag race works is that you move to a marked area and wait whilst the people in front go.
You then move up to the "track surface" which is covered in rubber and crap and wait until you're instructed to perform your burn out (which we obviously don't do). But if you did, you'd then reverse back to the "Pre-Staging" line.
Since we didn't do the burnout, we drive to the Pre-Staging line, which is 7" from the Start line, and the "Pre-Staging lights" come on.
You then need to roll forward enough to for the "Stage" lights to come on. Traditional manual cars would be doing this by slipping the clutch a bit whilst loading up against the handbrake.
At which point the Amber lights flash pretty quickly and then the green goes.


Because we have these DSG's where the only way to access "Launch Control" (not that it really is) is to hold down the ESP Off button for 3 to 5 seconds, you simply don't have time to do that when you're "Staged", unless you're ok with the other person racing off into the distance and purely going on the "cross the line times" only and not including the reaction time (i.e. not being the other person to the 400m line).

So what I did before I went to the track, is I found that I could initiate LC, do a few revs to ensure it's actually on, but then let the revs drop down to idle, drive a few metres up the road, stop, then rev again and LC was still active. So I thought I'd be ok with my understanding of how the drags worked.
So when I got to the drags, I would initiate the LC whilst we were held at the "burnout" section of the track, and then drive forward to the pre-stage, and everything would be fine.
Unfortunately where things came undone for me, was that the rolling forward a few inches to be "staged" would then not let me rev the car.

So this is something I need to play around with more. My thoughts....
- Can I skip the pre-stage and roll straight to the stage?
- Maybe the roll from pre-stage to stage isn't the problem; maybe the problem is that I was just too anxious to start reving and the car wasn't registering a "complete stop".
- The fact that when I wasn't able to rev and I had to launch from "idle", completed my run, drove all the way back to the queue area, and was THEN able to rev again kinda indicates maybe the last point could be a real possibility.
- Maybe I should just completely ignore the possibility of having a good "reaction time" and just enable LC and rev etc whilst the lights are already green. In "non-pro" events the final time doesn't include the reaction time anyway

Anyway... in case people didn't already know, just like there is much more than just "turning left" in NASCAR, there is a lot more than just mashing the gas in the drags! It's bound to take you several visits and a lot of discussion, observation and analysis, and practise, to pull it all together

[AdamD]

So this is something I need to play around with more. My thoughts....
- Can I skip the pre-stage and roll straight to the stage?
- Maybe the roll from pre-stage to stage isn't the problem; maybe the problem is that I was just too anxious to start reving and the car wasn't registering a "complete stop".
- The fact that when I wasn't able to rev and I had to launch from "idle", completed my run, drove all the way back to the queue area, and was THEN able to rev again kinda indicates maybe the last point could be a real possibility.
- Maybe I should just completely ignore the possibility of having a good "reaction time" and just enable LC and rev etc whilst the lights are already green. In "non-pro" events the final time doesn't include the reaction time anyway

A few of my observations in my GTI:
- I've been able to disable traction control by pressing the ESP Off button, and it just takes a second or so. No 3-5 seconds, and the act of pressing the button doesn't of itself enable launch control. Maybe there's a random delay built in to the button/function, but it's been snappy for me on the few occasions I've used it.
- After having performed LC starts, I've been able to drive several km (switch from Sport or Manual to Drive), then come to a rest, go back to Sport, and LC is immediately activated. No need to touch the ESP Off button.
- On one occasion I did follow the regular procedure and felt resistance against the brakes. I got off the throttle, applied more brake pressure, back to D, back to S, and all was good.

[Corey_R]

Maybe I'm getting all confused about the process to activate LC because of having owned a MKV where you did need to hold the button for 3 to 5 seconds to COMPLETELY disable ESP for LC to work. MK6's are not like that atm. Having said that, if I put it into S and simply press the ESP Off button, then attempt to apply throttle, then it loads up against the brakes. Maybe I'll try leaving it in D, pressing the ESP, then switching into S and seeing what it does.

When I first got the car, I did entirely read the manual and I remember seeing it documented in there how to enable it. So I'll also go back and re-read that.

On a side note. I've managed now on several occasions to get it into a situation where it'll rev past 3000... actually all the way to red line. I haven't been game to actually launch it when it's done that though, cause I'm worried that it maybe thinks something else is happening and won't "slip the clutches" as it should from a standing start.