Mk6 Golf Acceleration & Performance Data

[Big_Dave]

Corey, as a matter of interest what is the cost to replace a DSG box in the R?

[Corey_R]

No idea. It wouldn't be cheap!
Usually though you're not replacing the "gear" part. You're replacing the clutches (rare in the 6sp as they're bathed in oil) or you're replacing the mechatronics box which is on the side of the DSG box.

[dave_r]

Ah yes, forgot about the staging part. Though if you got to the line first, ie before the other guy, it would buy a bit more time as it won't go green until he's moved forward as well?

[Sammy125TDi]

Yeah.... I know re the staging time... but still, I want to beat them to the damn line damn it! hehe
Yeah - it was very muggy tonight, I'd be sweating by the time I got my helmet off and rolled my sleeves up after the run.

Oh, and for those who were wondering, you can disable the LED DRL's on the R so that the drag officials don't get upset at you! (thanks Sammy125TDi !!)

Good times mate...

As i said in the 1/4 mile thread.... don't worry about reaction times, big turbo auto trans guys will often wait 10-15 seconds with the green light lit up before they leave on boost.

[Corey_R]

Cheers!

Having said that, on the way home I tried out some theories based on my findings last night and on what AdamD suggested.
And I must say, AdamD was spot on.

The quickest method to get into "Launch Control" is whilst you're in D, even if you're still moving, to press the ESP Off button. It needs about a 1 second press and that's all. Then when you come to a stand-still, keep the brake depressed, push the DSG lever into M or S, and you'll be able to rev up to ~3000rpm and take off by releasing the brake. Each time you then come back to a stand-still, you'll be able to rev and LC from the line again.

If you're at a stand-still, then you roll forward a little bit (either in traffic, or at the lights, or at the pre-stage/stage lines on the dragstrip) and then go to rev but find it loads up against the brakes - keep the brake depressed, push the DSG level into D and then back into either M or S, and you'll be able to rev again.

So in the case of the drag strip, make sure ESP is off before you go through the gates, and then leave it in D until you are "staged", then quickly put it into S, keep your foot on the brake until the revs are where you need and the lights are almost green, then release the brake and go!

Hope that helps guys.

[bwen]

Good tip on the LC Corey. Curious on your 1/4 mile time, did you have traction problems off the line? What PSI were you running in your tyres also?

[BezzyR]

Good tip on the LC Corey. Curious on your 1/4 mile time, did you have traction problems off the line? What PSI were you running in your tyres also?

lol traction problems in AWD... me thinks not...

[Corey_R]

I doubt there were traction issues - the haldex system handles even Stage 1 power fine. Plus my 60' time was really good. PSI were at 35. Next time I head down I'll have Stage II and hopefully not be so nervous. Maybe I'll have more spare brain-cycles to devote some to taking notice of things like initial traction! And a few more runs unhindered by LC engagement issues before it rains so that I can try different tyre pressures.

[AdamD]

Yeah - I tried that, no joy. AdamD, when you get a chance, can you please let me know whether the red light on the button comes on when depressed regardless of whether the GTech is connected or not?

Sorry Corey, I was mistaken; the light turns on for me even if the cable isn't plugged into the back of the Gtech, as long as it's firmly pushed into the 12v socket. So unless you didn't have it seated right (and it needs a firm push), you might have a dodgy cable.

[Corey_R]

Thanks for checking