Limp mode + Blown fuse

**smokiebbear** · 31-03-2015, 11:03 AM

What specific tools are required?

**JB's Dub** · 31-03-2015, 12:02 PM

Just various minor tools, like tensioner locking tools, vacuum bleeder for the cooling system etc. The handiest tool is the locking tool for the supercharger allowing you to remove the pulley off it. It makes life a hell of a lot easier.

**Snail Style** · 01-04-2015, 05:31 AM

Test wiring first, it's not common for a solenoid to blow a fuse as it is basically just a switch.

**smokiebbear** · 01-04-2015, 08:21 AM

Originally Posted by Snail Style

Test wiring first, it's not common for a solenoid to blow a fuse as it is basically just a switch.

I'm going to go over it on Friday and check all the earth's. Wouldn't the fact the supercharger engaging at 900rpm in neutral suggest that its more than a wiring issue? It had thrown another fault code initially before we reset it to try and clear the limp mode and one was a boost issue, possibly an over boost which would suggest the supercharger wasn't disengaging and the constant clicking is possibly the solenoid trying to disengage it but it's unable to. The 2 fault codes could be present because the blown fuse is preventing it from making a complete connection?

**smokiebbear** · 01-04-2015, 08:27 AM

Originally Posted by JB's Dub

Just various minor tools, like tensioner locking tools, vacuum bleeder for the cooling system etc. The handiest tool is the locking tool for the supercharger allowing you to remove the pulley off it. It makes life a hell of a lot easier.

Where can I get myself a set of these tools? Are they available from anywhere?

I'm going to do this myself on Friday on the ground with the car on ramps. Do I go from underneath the car to remove it or pull off the intake and go in that way?

Any suggestions?

**JB's Dub** · 01-04-2015, 10:17 AM

You could try and make a tool to hold the supercharger shaft. You will need a ground thin 16mm spanner. You place it between the pulley and the supercharger itself. then turn the pulley until you find the key section of the shaft and the spanner will lock in and hold the shaft steady. You will need to remove the intake pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler for clearance. the 3 T30 screws that hold the pump to the engine can be a bit difficult to get to. If you have a copy of ELSA have a good read of that.

**smokiebbear** · 01-04-2015, 01:22 PM

Originally Posted by JB's Dub

You could try and make a tool to hold the supercharger shaft. You will need a ground thin 16mm spanner. You place it between the pulley and the supercharger itself. then turn the pulley until you find the key section of the shaft and the spanner will lock in and hold the shaft steady. You will need to remove the intake pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler for clearance. the 3 T30 screws that hold the pump to the engine can be a bit difficult to get to. If you have a copy of ELSA have a good read of that.

I thought it was just as simple as removing and replacing the water pump unit as seen in the following link .... http://www.ramspeedautomotive.com.au...tomotive-2.jpg

**JB's Dub** · 01-04-2015, 01:47 PM

Have a look at where the water pump is fitted on your car. That picture shows where it is on a partially stripped engine. The amount of stuff you need to remove just to get to the bolts for the water pump. This job pisses many a VW tech off!

**Umai Naa!!** · 01-04-2015, 01:53 PM

There is a bit of a process to it.

Once you get the engine mount out of the way, you need to remove the noise-dampening cover from the supercharger, use a thin 16mm spanner to counterhold the supercharger shaft while you loosen (only loosen at this stage!) the 4 M10 spline bolts on the water pump for the 2 pulleys, slacken and lock the belt tensioner with a pin (there's a hole in the casting where a 16mm spanner is used to move the tensioner, and a hole behind it for locking the arm). The belt will only come off with the 2 pulleys. Then it's just a matter of swapping out the pump.

The other thing you need to be mindful of, is the cooling system on these can be tricky to bleed the air out of. VW recommends pressure-filling them, to force the air locks out. You can do it the normal way, of filling it up, running it up to normal operating temperature with the lid on, and letting it sit for a few hours. You'll need to top it up a few times afterwards over the next day or so.