GTi axle tramp under acceleration

[Ryan_R]

If there was a hypothetical DURO number for stock does anyone know that would be to help put things in perspective? Thanks for the feedback.

[Guy_H]

Stock Duro is not an easy number - because of the design, you have an upper & lower mount, and the "insert" or stiffener" fills the void in the stock mount. Rubber itself is about 30 duro (stock), but they change the movement or "actual duro" by cutting holes in the stock mounts which allow more or less movement - but what most of the accessory versions (including ours) do is fill the factory "voids". We did a fair bit of testing back in 07' to come up with the 80 & 90 duro versions (after seeing some imported versions increasing stiffness by over 300%), and our insert only goes in the lower mount where some go through both.

Any time you stiffen an engine mount, you will change the NVH unless you go to something like Porsche have done with "active" engine mounts. Simple answer. buy a new GT# & get the best of both worlds

[Ryan_R]

GT#?

I would've guessed GTI but the I is nowhere near the #

[MACCAA]

GT#?

I would've guessed GTI but the I is nowhere near the #

But 3 is....

[Ryan_R]

Fair enough. Not a massive Porsche fan.

[MrGTIandRfan]

In short, what can I do to remove/lessen the axle tramp 'issue' besides controlling my right foot? (I am very much a newbie when it comes to suspension modifications).

I find that I can avoid it if I baby the car into motion and then go hard on the accelerator.

I don't recall any axle tramp issues with the Scirocco R that I drove and I was quite liberal with my right foot.

[Guy_H]

the hop happens on the "verge" of breaking / making traction. A little bit of wheel spin stops it (and stops bogging) - illegal in QLD!

One thing to check is tyre pressures - higher will have slightly less grip. Also raise your revs (if you can) - or the opposite, stay lower than the "breaking" point. Porsche 911 & 986 & 987's have the problem bad, wheel spin is their answer........