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Thread: Golf 118 TSI Engine Failures and Service Campaign 24S4

  1. #881
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    Have you tried volkwerke in Greensborough


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    B6 Passat Wagon No KESSY

  2. #882
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    Sorry for the late reply, been very busy! I've actually taken the car to someone else for a second opinion. The first guy said two cylinders have lost compression and thus a new engine was needed. However this other guy said that the compression is fine on all cylinders and he thinks the issue is with the on board computer and calibration.

    He sais he's going to send the on board computer off to someplace in Tullamarine, (Power House?, I can't remember the exact name) but they'll diagnose and fix as necessary.

    I'm wondering why the first mechanic said there was no compression on two cylinders. Is it possible for it to have lost then regained the compression? Unless he was trying to rip me off?

  3. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOne View Post
    Sorry for the late reply, been very busy! I've actually taken the car to someone else for a second opinion. The first guy said two cylinders have lost compression and thus a new engine was needed. However this other guy said that the compression is fine on all cylinders and he thinks the issue is with the on board computer and calibration.

    He sais he's going to send the on board computer off to someplace in Tullamarine, (Power House?, I can't remember the exact name) but they'll diagnose and fix as necessary.

    I'm wondering why the first mechanic said there was no compression on two cylinders. Is it possible for it to have lost then regained the compression? Unless he was trying to rip me off?
    None of us can really comment unless you post what the wet & dry figures were.

    Unfortunately you appear to be not very astute mechanically so it's going to cost you a lot no matter what path you go down as you can't do anything yourself. $120-$150/hr soon adds up.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  4. #884
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    Compression tests are cheap, if you don't know who to trust you can always get another one. Getting people to mess around with the ECu sounds expensive and suspect. If you post the results of them you'll get feedback from the forums.

  5. #885
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    So I signed up after finding this thread via the google and am impressed with the knowledge and depth people have covered this issue with. I promise I'm only seeking help because I've hit a brick wall googling stuff and would appreciate a little help understanding my options.

    We (me and the missus) own a 2010 comfortline bought second hand in 2013. Now has 105k on the odometer and has run very well otherwise.

    To cut a long story short at our last service the mechanic told us the pressure was failing in two cylinders and the engine needed a rebuild at around $8k and that replacing it with another engine would be in the same cost range.

    I took it for a second opinion from a cheap mechanic recommended by a family friend who offered to replace the pistons for ~$5k but seemed to have little appreciation of the situation and did not inspire much confidence.

    The missus contacted vw who said they would only consider any claim after the car was inspected by a dealer. the missus then contacted a local dealer and chatted with the mechanic who said in most cases vw would only assess the claim after the engine had been partially dismantled for assessment at a cost of ~$1,000.

    So I see my options as falling into four boxes I'm trying to decide between

    1.Get my established mechanic to rebuild the engine for ~8k
    2.Go the route of handing the car to sit at the dealership for a few weeks, possibly getting a partial amount of the parts cost covered and paying the dealer premium for the rest of the work - I don't imagine I'll come a lot better out of it cost wise than option #1.
    3. Try to engage vw a little differently by arguing the problem's been diagnosed by an mechanic with considerable vw experience and I should be able to get a better kind of commitment from them without having to fork out a grand and leave the car sitting at a dealer.
    4.Go the route suggested on the previous page and replace the engine with one from a wreck.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mk R View Post

    Keep calling all the large wreckers, I picked up a late 2011 CAVD central block with 20,000 on it for $2k. I'm sure there's still plenty of them out there for that price. I run a stage 1 tune and it is now 50,000km down the track and going strong. The lean map wasn't the only issue and if you want to be even more certain of avoiding another failure get in touch with the guy on here who replaced his CAVD engine with a CTHD version which has the forged pistons and a few other strengthened internals. I understand that engine fits into our cars too. Those may be more $$$ as they're newer and rarer at the wreckers. Those CTHD upgraded parts are most likely what VW will be selling you and there's a good chance you wont get all of them with a rebuild.

    Bottom line: low km used CAVD from 2011 on for $2,000 and about $1,500 for the install from a good mechanic. Negotiate from there and don't be afraid to call bull**** on the VW $6,000 quote.
    I want to investigate this option further but have very little understanding and can't understand what sorts of engines I can put in - can any CAVD engine go in? What's the difference with the CTHD engines and how do I know that the same sort of engine isn't likely to have the same piston issue - is there something I should look for (e.g. made after a certain date?)

    Any advice would be welcome as I'm drowning a bit trying to figure out what to do.....

  6. #886
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    Hi Michael!

    The option i took is to get the latest year engine with low km i could find, aim for a 2012 CAVD engine block with under 50,000km on it. This is just the central block part of the engine.

    1. ask around here to find a good local mechanic who has done this before. My local mechanic in Sydney generally does this work for about $1500. Try and find one who's done this a few times. You can by all means go to a VW specialist or Euro specialist but big names can mean big overheads and higher prices. Once you've found the guy, ask if you can have the engine delivered to his workshop in the lead-up to the job.

    2. Call the wreckers in and around Melbourne to find the lowest km 2011 or later CAVD block, i got a 2011 CAVD with ~20,000km for $2,000. Let them know you're shopping around and have been quoted that price. Organise for delivery to the mechanic or to your garage. The block weighs about 80 kilos so strong adults can lift it on and off a ute ok. If you need to keep it at your place you can rest it in an old tyre if you have one or rest it carefully on something else.

    3. If you want to keep the car, consider getting the spark plugs, ignition coils and high pressure fuel pump updated to the most recent versions. Google is your friend, so is ebay. These were shortcomings of the original engine. The forum can help you with those part numbers, as can you VW service centre or mechanic. The idea is to find the parts cheap by yourself and get the mechanic to install them when your car goes in for regular servicing. In my humble opinion, these cars benefit from 5,000km oil changes/services. When you get it serviced have the mechanic do a compression test every 2nd service or so to track its health so to speak.

    I suggest getting either the VW or an aftermarket remap to make the fuel/air mix "wetter" which reduces the running temps. The VW map is a free recall if you haven't got it already. If you do there'll be a sticker on the drivers side door frame (on the car side).

    If you don't care either way about having that car, maybe sell it after the work is done and get yourself a TDI instead. The Golf Mk V GT diesel is also a good and fun car thats not too $$$.

    4. For extra reading you can refer to Lucifer's guide (same engine) for more info: Lucifer's ultimate guide: 1.4tsi fundamental problems - SEAT Cupra.net - SEAT Forum

    Good luck to you man, feel free to ask any other questions in here, hope this is useful for you.

    EDIT: Yes any 2011-2012 CAVD engine will do. You just need the central block part, not the peripherals like turbo, supercharger etc. The CTHD engine is just the next version on from the CAVD with upgraded internals like forged and coated pistons. I understand there may be some slight differences but there's a guy here who's done the swap. search the forum for his CAVD CTHD engine replacement thread and hit him up about it if you're curious. I'd only do that if you want to keep the car.

    FYI, i put a 2011 CAVD in mine and have tuned the engine for more power. Mine is still running fine with good compression after 50,000km.
    Last edited by Mk R; 28-05-2016 at 11:19 AM.

  7. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk R View Post
    EDIT: Yes any 2011-2012 CAVD engine will do. You just need the central block part, not the peripherals like turbo, supercharger etc. The CTHD engine is just the next version on from the CAVD with upgraded internals like forged and coated pistons. I understand there may be some slight differences but there's a guy here who's done the swap. search the forum for his CAVD CTHD engine replacement thread and hit him up about it if you're curious. I'd only do that if you want to keep the car.
    The CTHD pistons are certainly not forged - but are better than pre-2012 pistons in the CAVD.
    2012 CAVD engines were also upgraded to use the same pistons as the CTHD engine (same part numbers)

    The only difference between a CAVD and CTHD internals are the pistons - conrod's, inlet valves, exhaust valves, valve springs - all the same as a 2010 CAVD. A 2012 CAVD is practically a CTHD.

  8. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by blower View Post
    The CTHD pistons are certainly not forged - but are better than pre-2012 pistons in the CAVD.
    2012 CAVD engines were also upgraded to use the same pistons as the CTHD engine (same part numbers)

    The only difference between a CAVD and CTHD internals are the pistons - conrod's, inlet valves, exhaust valves, valve springs - all the same as a 2010 CAVD. A 2012 CAVD is practically a CTHD.
    Thanks, Blower. There you go Michael, that's the difference.

  9. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by blower View Post
    The CTHD pistons are certainly not forged - but are better than pre-2012 pistons in the CAVD.
    2012 CAVD engines were also upgraded to use the same pistons as the CTHD engine (same part numbers)

    The only difference between a CAVD and CTHD internals are the pistons - conrod's, inlet valves, exhaust valves, valve springs - all the same as a 2010 CAVD. A 2012 CAVD is practically a CTHD.
    When you say 2012 do you mean calendar year? My Jetta was made in January 2012 and I've always wondered if it made the cut off point to get the uprated pistons.

  10. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rawcpoppa View Post
    When you say 2012 do you mean calendar year? My Jetta was made in January 2012 and I've always wondered if it made the cut off point to get the uprated pistons.
    Its the manufacturer date - the pistons in the CAVD changed to the same ones in the CTHD from 10th Jan 2012....so if your car has a manufacture date after that time it should have the latest piston revision.

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