Changing 118TSI Poly V-Belt

[logger]

Happy New Year to all.

Any recommendations or tips on changing the main V-Belt on my twincharger. One of the 6 ribs has been neatly filleted off and I found it on my driveway. Gravel roads and I suspect a stone chip flew up and wedged between the belt and one of the ancillaries. so the belt is currently 5/6 its original width but otherwise running fine. But a time bomb no doubt.

Just wondering if this is one of those jobs which looks straight forward on paper but is a pain to accomplish due to confined space.

Don't have a hoist but was have access to some ramps so I can get underneath. Is it simply a matter of loosening two tensioners and retaining them while swapping in a new belt. Can I use something like a 4" nail in lieu of the Locking pin -T10060 A tool?

[h100vw]

I'd be up for a go doing that job without the special tool.

A bent nail or piece of rod would work for sure.

Otherwise can't see it being that bad a job.

Gavin

Happy New Year to all.

Any recommendations or tips on changing the main V-Belt on my twincharger. One of the 6 ribs has been neatly filleted off and I found it on my driveway. Gravel roads and I suspect a stone chip flew up and wedged between the belt and one of the ancillaries. so the belt is currently 5/6 its original width but otherwise running fine. But a time bomb no doubt.

Just wondering if this is one of those jobs which looks straight forward on paper but is a pain to accomplish due to confined space.

Don't have a hoist but was have access to some ramps so I can get underneath. Is it simply a matter of loosening two tensioners and retaining them while swapping in a new belt. Can I use something like a 4" nail in lieu of the Locking pin -T10060 A tool?

[buzuki]

hmm, theres a fair bit of tension, I dont think a nail will hold it, even the factory tool bends after awhile.

[h100vw]

hmm, theres a fair bit of tension, I dont think a nail will hold it, even the factory tool bends after awhile.

It's only going to be in there a few minutes and it'll be in shear. I don't any problems with that?

Gavin

[Transporter]

It's only going to be in there a few minutes and it'll be in shear. I don't any problems with that?

Gavin

Not really in the shear, since the 2 parts that are locked by the pin are approx. 5mm-10mm apart, so if the pin is not strong enough it will bend and you won't be able to remove the belt.

[h100vw]

Not really in the shear, since the 2 parts that are locked by the pin are approx. 5mm-10mm apart, so if the pin is not strong enough it will bend and you won't be able to remove the belt.

Even still, I don't see it bending so far in a couple of minutes, that it would stop you removing it, with no tension on.

Gavin

[Transporter]

Even still, I don't see it bending so far in a couple of minutes, that it would stop you removing it, with no tension on.

Gavin

There will be max. tension on it when you lock it with the pin and unless the pin is the right diameter and strength it will bent quite fast.

[logger]

Thanks for the suggestions. Will give it a crack. If it looks like my my locking pin is going to bend, I will abort the task and leave the old belt in place.

[brad]

The special tool is just a bit of rod with a chamfer on the end. If you can work out the correct diameter it an easy home made tool.

[logger]

....the 2 parts that are locked by the pin are approx. 5mm-10mm apart, so if the pin is not strong enough it will bend and you won't be able to remove the belt.

Nope. Turns out there is a sleeve between the two parts of the tensioner on my car, reducing the gap to about 2mm. So pretty unlikely for the pin to bend.

The hole diameter is about 7mm so I needed something thicker than a nail. I fashioned an L shaped tool from some Concrete reo mesh that was lying around.

More of an an issue was getting an open ender to rotate the tensioner the required amount to get the pin in. Not possible in the confines of my car unless I had the special offset spanner like the one in repair manual. So Instead I made a wedge to fit in the tapered hub of the tensioner. This allowed plenty of room to rotate it from the centre with a shifter. Looks like there is some special factory tool that would be designed to fit in to this hub and rotate it.

Then had to get in from below to release the second tensioner with a 16mm socket and Alan key. Belt was then simple to swap. In the process I stumbled on the culprit. A stone chip the size of a water melon seed was still firmly wedged into one of the grooves of the plastic Air con pulley. Nearly missed it! Would have stuffed the new belt quick smart too.

Anyway all up an running again now. Thanks for the tips.