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Thread: 2.0L TDI Oil Change - DIY Advice

  1. #1
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    2.0L TDI Oil Change - DIY Advice

    Hi all,

    I am looking for advice as to how easy it is to do an oil and filter change in a MKV Golf 2.0L TDI Pacific? I am approaching the magic number of 7500 km's, and following the advice of countless threads here at VWwatercooled I am going to perform an oil and filter change.

    I am happy to confess that I am not hugely mechanically minded although having said that I am not completely lost with a spanner in my hand. I would like to give it a go myself as I can not justify the prices charged by dealer service centers for what I understand to be a pretty simple procedure.

    I am not looking for oil advice as I am aware of the spec's required, but would like some technical know how as I can not seem to find any DIY threads.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Regards,
    David
    MY09 Golf Pacific TDI - United Grey - 6sp Manual

  2. #2
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    HI David,

    I had my first service on the GT TDI done @ 7,500 by the VW dealer. I did however have to have the oil changed in my son's Comfortline as the wrong grade of oil had been used by the dealer we purchased it from (a Toyota dealer in Melbourne) and when we had it shipped up to NSW I had it changed at my local mechanics workshop and as it was his first oil change on a Golf, he allowed me into the workshop to watch the procedure. I can tell you that the first thing you will need to do is get the car up off the ground a bit to give you enough clearance to get underneath it. You will then need to remove the plastic splash guards to enable access to the sump plug. At the front of the car from underneath you will see a hex shaped nut which if you undo that one you will actually be undoing the base of the oil cooler (from memory) which is not really necessary but at the same time, it does hold a fair bit of engine oil which if not drained from that point will only mix in with the new oil once it's put in. The actual oil filter is accessible from the top of the engine at the front and the setup looks pretty much identical to the oiler cooler (a hexagonal nut) You will need to remove the plastic engine cover first which should just pop up if you lift it gently at the holding points. The oil filter itself is an open cartridge filter which fits inside a canister with the hexagonal nut making up the lid. It might sound confusing but once you see it you'll know what I mean. It is pretty messy so be prepared for that and from what I've read before it is very important not to cross-thread the hexagonal nuts when reassembling things. Just make sure you use the correct grade of oil because I can tell you first hand if you don't it will probably smoke like a chimney, the Comfortline did, as they had used 20w50 or 15w40 Toyota diesel oil in it. Once the correct grade was in it ran perfectly. Hopefully this will give you an idea anyway, so have fun
    Last edited by Russ59; 09-04-2009 at 08:30 PM.
    Russ

    2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 R Premium

  3. #3
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    Remove bottom engine cover (Torx sockets or bits needed). Undo the sump plug and drain the old oil.
    Undo the top engine cover cover (10mm 1/4" dr socket - 2 nuts holding it) to get access to the oil filter from the top.
    Undo black oil filter cap using 32mm socket or adjustable spanner (be careful around in the engine bay with the adjustable spanner).

    If you also undo the bottom cap from the oil filter housing (not necessary) you will drain more oil out of the engine but pour some engine oil onto the oil filter housing before you insert a new oil filter in.
    Oil filter in, screw the oil cap back on after you replaced all the O-rings(supplied with the oil filter).
    Do not over tighten - 25Nm torque as printed on the cap. Pour the rest of the engine oil in. Do not overfill.
    Last edited by Transporter; 09-04-2009 at 08:37 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
    Undo the top engine cover cover (10mm 1/4" dr socket - 2 nuts holding it)
    On my GT TDI the plastic engine cover has moulded plugs on it which push in and lock into rubber sockets. It has no nuts holding it, I think however that Cam's Comfortline does
    Russ

    2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 R Premium

  5. #5
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    Thread Starter
    Thank you all!

    This is a great start - I will let you know how it goes.
    MY09 Golf Pacific TDI - United Grey - 6sp Manual

  6. #6
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    The bottom cap is something I'd probably say to leave alone for a first go. sure it removes the last 5%, but it also holds the fins of the oil cooler to the filter housing, and apart from being very very messy, it's not simple to just line it back up and screw it back in.

    View from underneath.




    Here's how you get into the top, where the filter is, and I've no idea how you'd manage it with anything BUT a 32mm socket from your local auto supplier. Oh and your airfliter will look a little different!

    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cogdoc View Post

    Here's how you get into the top, where the filter is, and I've no idea how you'd manage it with anything BUT a 32mm socket from your local auto supplier. Oh and your airfliter will look a little different!

    Interesting, looks just like the VR6 oil filter housing, just the other way around and not at the bottom of the motor... same size socket as well if I'm not mistaken.

  8. #8
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    Warranty

    Just a word of caution....(but you probably know this already!)...if anything goes wrong you void warranty if any work, no matter how minor, is carried out by anyone other than a registered workshop.

  9. #9
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    Thread Starter
    Again guys, this is all very valuable info!

    Thanks again.
    MY09 Golf Pacific TDI - United Grey - 6sp Manual

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cetane View Post
    Just a word of caution....(but you probably know this already!)...if anything goes wrong you void warranty if any work, no matter how minor, is carried out by anyone other than a registered workshop.
    What you’re saying is absolutely WRONG.

    The warranty is voided only if something was done wrong – you caused the fault.

    Warranty is for the faults and defects from the manufacturer, if you maintain your car correctly (it doesn't have to be serviced by the dealer) you can't void the warranty (hence faults/defects which were hidden and show up or happened within 3 years usually 100,000km from the date of purchase of a brand new car). However It doesn’t cover abuse or misuse of the car.

    How ever, if you're not a mechanic you will fail to detect any faults, which may be there and need attention/repair under the warranty. You will not noticed them and later, when the car is out of the warranty you spend money you saved on the extra repairs which would be otherwise repaired at no cost to you under the warranty (if only the dealer would noticed them, which is not always the case).

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