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Bumper carrier must be removed by taking out these 4 bolts highlighted in red and 2 torx screws highlighted in white on both sides as well as 4 additional torx screws to the top. Note that the air temperature sensor in pic below should be removed prior to removing bumper carrier. Note a box or jack stands should be used to support the air conditioner condenser and related parts as they will be almost floating without the bumper carrier support. I don't know the actual size of the bolts but I used the stock wheel bolt tool that came with the car. Anyone who knows what size bolts this fits feel free to provide the info so thread can be updated.
Bumper carrier removed:
Unplug any remaining harnesses at this point for headlights or hood open/close sensor (highlighted in red, located on passenger side). Unplug hood release cable attached to headlight support via two clips on driver’s side. Be careful with the clips as they are easy to break.
At this point most persons can remove the lock carrier with the headlights still attached via the headlight supports but I had AC lines in the way of the lock carrier so this was not possible.
I had to remove my headlights. Screws in white are the headlight support screws. Those highlighted in red attach the headlight to the headlight support. While not shown in this picture there is one more screw to the back of the headlight to be moved. Headlight slides outwards after removing screws.
Yellow highlight shows the location of the hood release cable connector.
Car should be looking like this now. Red highlights show screws that attach lock carrier to intercooler brackets which are shown removed and highlighted in red. White highlights show screws that attach the front condenser to the intercooler. In the pic they are obscured by the flappy looking part. Air conditioner lines prevent the removal of the lock carrier completely making this job harder.
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After removing these screws the lock carrier and AC condenser can be swung out to gain access to the intercooler. Red highlight shows where the ac condenser connects to the intercooler. White highlight shows hose clamp that came with my car. This was different from other guides and ETKA which shows car with specialised connectors. In any case this made the work easier as the hose clamp can be used on the new intercooler quite easily. Only needs a flat head screwdriver to slacken or tighten. There are two hose clamps to be slackened on either side of the intercooler. Note the torx screws needed to separate the radiator from intercooler also highlighted in red to the back of the intercooler.
The intercooler can be pulled out from between the radiator and the AC condenser. The new intercooler goes in the same way the old one comes out. If no AC lines are in the way the process is easier without the lock carrier in the way but if this is not the case the new intercooler can still be put in but may be easier with the help of another person to hold the lock carrier and AC condenser away from other parts to create the space needed for insertion.
Old intercooler. Part number : 1k0145803BM.
After installing new intercooler basically follow steps in reverse to reassemble.
Patience is key. Remember to reconnect all wire harnesses and hood release cable connector!
Place different sets of screws and bolts in bags and label them. This makes reassembling easier rather than trying to remember what each screw or bolt was for which section.
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