The only advice I could offer for the auto upshifting is to hold the "down" paddle and it'll hold the gear. I can't remember if it downshifts if you hold the paddle but if definitely shouldn't shift up.
Hope this helps.
Hi all, I did post much of this in the Newbies introductory post, but no responses..
I also have recently bought a Golf R32 MkV 2008!!! It is black, DSG, and has an APR tune, recently installed Bilstein B16 coilover suspension (adjustable), upgraded disks and pads too.
Pretty happy with it - love the torque, sound and the gearbox and awd grip, as well as the creature comforts and quality interior.
First question - I am also planning to upgrade the Haldex next time I am in at European Autotech too. The APR website has the haldex generation 2 APR - High Performance Development for Audi, VW and Porsche Vehicles.
But there are a few options for this aren't there? And is there a nicer way to control it than the cheap looking knob, perhaps utilizing some of the blank switches?
I have done one track day in it (when it was completely stock) and actually was fairly disappointed with it, understeering and wallowing around, even chewing the front tyres into the guards.. Did a 2:03 on the Eastern Creek GP circuit, top speed was 187kmh, 160 around turn 1. (I am no maniac either - was my 10th track day overall and I was not pushing it too hard). That is why I had the Bilstein coilovers installed - I feel they have made the car exactly what I was expecting it should be in the first place - just a bit more taut and direct, a bit like a BMW or Mini Cooper feel.. I especially like that you can just reach under each corner and tweak a dial to adjust how aggressive they are!
I ended up buying them from US because the Bilstein supplier in Aust was out of stock for 6wks, and actually they took only 1wk to ship and saved me nearly $1K!
Second question - I do have some slight scrubbing at the front occasionally when tight cornering at speed (they did slightly lower it when they put in the coilovers), so may need to remove the infamous fender screw and/or some of the plastics. Hopefully I do not need to resort to rolling the guards.. Any learnings to share here?
Third question - related to taking an R32 to trackdays - what wheels and semi-slick tyres do others use? Is it worth just buying some soft tyres to put on the existing standard rims, for decent grip and to preserve road tyres?
I don't really want to invest in a whole new set of rims as I only do a couple of track days per year. If possible I'd rather just get the tyres temporarily swapped over.. Or even just the front tyres.. Naiive??
Fourth question - I was driving in manual mode at Eastern Creek, but the DSG gearbox would overrule me and change up at 6500rpm every time - this was annoying as often I would change at exactly the same time as it 2nd-guessed me, and then I suddenly went up 2 gears and lost the power curve!
So eventually I gave up on changing up and let the DSG manage changing up, and I just looked after changing down gears.. which is pretty weird! Any thoughts on this? Is this a DSG upgrade needed too?!
I am probably one of the few people who could say that my Golf R32 is a fair bit slower than my previous car, a Suzuki 1.3 turbo GTi.. But that car was completely insane (150kW at the wheels, 800kgs) and was hard to drive, a moneypit.. and divorce material!!
(by comparison it did 12sec quarter miles and was doing 224kmh down EC main straight though!)
So overall the R32 is still better in so many ways.. really love the car!
Cheers, James
Last edited by ToyRacer; 06-07-2013 at 12:17 PM.
The only advice I could offer for the auto upshifting is to hold the "down" paddle and it'll hold the gear. I can't remember if it downshifts if you hold the paddle but if definitely shouldn't shift up.
Hope this helps.
2002 Volkswagen Bora V5 - 2007 Mazda 3 GT - 1998 Ford Contour Sport - 2010 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0T - 2013 Volkswagen Passat 130TDI - 2015 Ford Escape 1.5 - 2016 Subaru WRX - 2018 Volkswagen Golf R Wolfsburg Wagon
Congrats on the car mate sounds nice. Yeah the R32 is a bit "slow" but more than makes it up with grip and poise (with some suspension mods) and awesome sound! Need to get some sways in there and oh yeah the Haldex upgrade will be night and day again. Also another night and day mod is VWR engine/trans and dogbone mount, really ties the front end down.
As far as DSG goes your only option is to see this man and get the dsg tune.
Optimumcode
Depending on your wheels and tire size you may need to get the guards rolled and def do the fender screw mod, makes a huge difference.
PS can I ask where you got the Bilsteins from and how much they cost?
Cheers.
Volvo S60 RD T6
Thanks for that advice!!
Yes I was definitely happier when I got the APR tune - it wasn't a huge lift but it was noticeably more willing..
I got the Coilovers from 'buyautoparts' on EBay - this is the actual item;
Brand NEW Genuine Bilstein PSS10 Coilover Suspension KIT FOR Audi VW | eBay
They cost $1750 plus I had to pay $250 courier & $160 import duty on them from memory..
They have a dial from 0-10 that adjusts the hardness, and that is perfect for a coilover in a daily driver! I typically drive on '6' which is significantly firmer than standard, but not too harsh.
Regarding the Sway bar, just the rear or both?
And regarding the Haldex, did you do the Gen 2 one?
Is it something you really want switchable in the cabin, or something that you just upgrade and leave always in the edgier mode?
Re the fender screw mod - thanks I looked it up here and it seems everyone finds it makes a big difference!!
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showth...nder+screw+mod
I have just contacted Optimumcode about the DSG too, thanks for that tip!!
Last edited by ToyRacer; 07-07-2013 at 01:56 AM.
The haldex controller is worth the money. I installed the switch next to the light switch on the small light switch panel with some tapered washers so it sat parallel. At the time, I bought it from the Canadian maker hpr? I have 18x8 on kw v3s but my guards are rolled etc and I never rub. There are a couple of companies doing dsg tunes and CPC (city performance centre) currently have a sale going.
08 MY09 R32, DBP, DSG, GIAC, R8V10 reps, KW V3, RNS510/VIM/BT/MDI, region free DVD, switched Haldex, s2t paddles,HPA dogbone rubber,Mk7 climatronics, FIS+, Adams/RDA discs & Hawk pads, Garage button, GruppeM. Front fogs, Milltek. CF Chin spoiler.Strut support. LEDs Alloy front suspension bits.....
http://photobucket.com/gregsr32
Welcome James.
I think you can have the best of both in an R32 as long as you keep the balance between power and handling. Bushes, control arms, sway bars, engine mounts and your suspension setup is all very important when it comes to tracking. Perhaps purchasing a Unibrace XB and UB would stiffen the chassis up a bit more if that's what you find is lacking. Unibrace braces help eliminate flex in the rear of the car on sharp cornering and change of direction. Many R32 and Golf R owners I know with the chassis brace swear by it.
To me, R32 is a front heavy car so even though upgrading the suspension and handling will remove some body roll into corners, it won't completely remove it as it will somewhat always be a heavy car for a hatchback. Haldex Gen 2 is a good modification, forces the torque split to remain rear biased rather than waiting for any slip from the rear wheels. Something I will look at doing to mine very soon. I've heard from others that in race mode it feels like a completely different car altogether. The driving dynamics are noticeably different, coming into a turn at high speed while braking you can feel the rear differential is still engaged. Once you come out of the turn you can feel the rear push you out of it.
You can take your daily out on the track but it will loosen up, so you would want to consider these things to either prevent or deter wear, or improve the experience out there.
Sheet that's a bloody good price for pss10's except now the AUD is crap : (
Oh I forgot about the unibrace, yes excellent mod as well. You can go crazy, Lower control arms, BBK and lighweight wheels to shed unsprung weight depends on how much cash you want to throw at it. With the haldex I got the remote which was a nice (albeit expensive) toy but in the end I just dialed it to "Race" mode and put the remote in the kitchen drawer where it stayed until I sold the car (2 years). As robbie said above, it works on deceleration as well as acceleration which gives you so much more control in sweeping downhill bends. The stock one is very fwd biased and as a result very understeery due to the front end weight of the car.
For dsg tune Gav's the man. Good service, nice guy!
Volvo S60 RD T6
Thanks guys - much appreciate your advice!!
So re the Haldex Gen2, is it worth having a switch at all, or is it better just to leave it in 'Race' mode permanently as thezoneR32 did?!
I have heard it can bind on tight cornering eg U-turns. Is that an issue or practically not so..??
You can save yourself quite a few hundred $ buying the Haldex direct from HPA in Canada: HPA Motorsports Inc. - Big Brake Kits
Thanks Lucas,
I checked on that link and you are right HPA have it for $999 USD (just the Haldex Gen2 not incl shipping - it is +$200 for wired switch). And 10% import duty is not needed on items <$1K, so I might have a winner..
For comparison, my local installer, European Autotech in Sydney have the Haldex Gen2 for $1775 plus $260 to install.
So is it worth getting the wired switch?
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