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Thread: build thread :)

  1. #71
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    Bracket on the far left is the front engine mount. Bolts up in conjunction with the starter motor and gearbox.

    2nd from the left is the alternator bracket. Small hole goes down near the water pump, slotted section up with the alternator so you can adjust the tension on the belt. You will have to space the top of it so the bracket doesn't hit the fins on the front pulley.

    middle bracket, can't recall possibly and old A/C compressor mount (some did have them)

    2nd from right is part of the rear exhaust mount, bolts up the the diff and off to the bottome exhaust bracket.

    Far right, is the same, another bracket that can support the exhaust
    Last edited by Volksee77; 01-03-2014 at 04:45 PM.
    77 Golf tarmac rally
    89 porsche 911
    80 Rabbit 4dr
    11 mk1 and 2\'s in various states of undress
    KEEPING THE BIG CUBES IN THE REAR VISION MIRROR

  2. #72
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    memory just kicked back in Pilks, the middle bracket bolts up onto the two bolts on the front of the water pump mate
    77 Golf tarmac rally
    89 porsche 911
    80 Rabbit 4dr
    11 mk1 and 2\'s in various states of undress
    KEEPING THE BIG CUBES IN THE REAR VISION MIRROR

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volksee77 View Post
    memory just kicked back in Pilks, the middle bracket bolts up onto the two bolts on the front of the water pump mate
    you, my friend, are a life saver! thank you so much i owe you one!
    But no really, I like to look distinguished when I step out of the car. People are like, "wonder what he does for living."
    I just reply, "your daughter, sir." - some dude on stanceworks

    I had fixed half the broken crap but that just meant it was still halfway inoperable

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by samdodds View Post
    got any photos of your home made upper/lower front braces?
    No photos of mine but I found this on the web. Lower brace is just a piece of 1" square section hollow bar running from one side to the other with a flat piece of 5mm thick iron plate welded on each end with a hole drilled for the bolts. Make up one end and weld it together. Bolt it to the car and make up the other end but bolt it to the car BEFORE you weld the plate to the bar so it's the exact length to suit your car. Make sure the holes you drill for the bolt to go through are just big enough for the bolt to go through. You don't want any side movement in this bar. Also, the hole has to be far enough away from the bar so you can fit a socket on the bolt to tighten it.

    Make sure the bolts have a spring washer to hold them in place or Loctite! I once spent 4 hours trying to get one of these bolts back in place after it had worked it's way loose one night going home from work.

    build thread :)-photo-0092-jpg

    Upper bar was similar to this but 2 parallel bars across the engine bay with a short piece at each end joining them so it looked like the letter H turned on it's side at each end. I used 1/2 inch square section hollow bar which was real easy to weld. The ends were similar to the picture above.

    build thread :)-mumeseja-jpg

    Imagine 2 of these in the picture below going across the engine bay but with only 1 hole at each end.

    The lower bar makes a big difference to the handling. The car turns into tight corners much easier. The upper bar makes very little difference but looks good when you show off the car to your mates, especially if painted bright red.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails build thread :)-upper-brace-jpg  
    Last edited by sports racer; 01-03-2014 at 09:10 PM.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by sports racer View Post
    No photos of mine but I found this on the web. Lower brace is just a piece of 1" square section hollow bar running from one side to the other with a flat piece of 5mm thick iron plate welded on each end with a hole drilled for the bolts. Make up one end and weld it together. Bolt it to the car and make up the other end but bolt it to the car BEFORE you weld the plate to the bar so it's the exact length to suit your car. Make sure the holes you drill for the bolt to go through are just big enough for the bolt to go through. You don't want any side movement in this bar. Also, the hole has to be far enough away from the bar so you can fit a socket on the bolt to tighten it.

    Make sure the bolts have a spring washer to hold them in place or Loctite! I once spent 4 hours trying to get one of these bolts back in place after it had worked it's way loose one night going home from work.

    build thread :)-photo-0092-jpg

    Upper bar was similar to this but 2 parallel bars across the engine bay with a short piece at each end joining them so it looked like the letter H turned on it's side at each end. I used 1/2 inch square section hollow bar which was real easy to weld. The ends were similar to the picture above.

    build thread :)-mumeseja-jpg

    Imagine 2 of these in the picture below going across the engine bay but with only 1 hole at each end.

    The lower bar makes a big difference to the handling. The car turns into tight corners much easier. The upper bar makes very little difference but looks good when you show off the car to your mates, especially if painted bright red.

    are they hard to make? look like a simple weld and drill sort of job to me, ill have to try it
    But no really, I like to look distinguished when I step out of the car. People are like, "wonder what he does for living."
    I just reply, "your daughter, sir." - some dude on stanceworks

    I had fixed half the broken crap but that just meant it was still halfway inoperable

  6. #76
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    Very easy to make as long as you cut the 3 pieces (lower bar) to the correct size. Don't rush it and think about what you are doing and it should work out 1st go.

    Upper bar is a bit harder because it also has to clear the engine. It's not really needed and I wouldn't bother with one if I had another MK1.

    Cheers

    Paul

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by sports racer View Post
    Very easy to make as long as you cut the 3 pieces (lower bar) to the correct size. Don't rush it and think about what you are doing and it should work out 1st go.

    Upper bar is a bit harder because it also has to clear the engine. It's not really needed and I wouldn't bother with one if I had another MK1.

    Cheers

    Paul
    is there a lower rear brace for a mk1?

    and ofcourse the upper brace has to be there, im a 17 year old guy trying to impress girls it has to look good
    But no really, I like to look distinguished when I step out of the car. People are like, "wonder what he does for living."
    I just reply, "your daughter, sir." - some dude on stanceworks

    I had fixed half the broken crap but that just meant it was still halfway inoperable

  8. #78
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    Feb 2014
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    Littlehampton, South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pilks View Post
    and ofcourse the upper brace has to be there, im a 17 year old guy trying to impress girls it has to look good
    +1 that
    79' MK1 Golf

  9. #79
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    No lower bar at the back but you could build an upper bar at the back between the top of the suspension towers. It's a bit harder to show your mates because it would be very close to the rear seat and only viewable with the hatch open. Makes bugger all difference to the handling though.

    Fit a front lower bar and a rear sway bar and impress your mates by going through roundabouts at double the speed limit.

  10. #80
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    tell you what a good present would be right now, a step by step guide on how to wire this stupid thing. i love it but it, with the lack of a non rude word, annoys me to hell
    But no really, I like to look distinguished when I step out of the car. People are like, "wonder what he does for living."
    I just reply, "your daughter, sir." - some dude on stanceworks

    I had fixed half the broken crap but that just meant it was still halfway inoperable

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