Dyno result today - need advice for fluctuation at top.

[insanekiwi]

Hi guys, had my car dynoed again after a year. The power was not as high as I hoped. Possibly due to 1) heat soak 2) crappy humid weather pouring down in rain 3) and reasonable temp and very small fan for the radiator and no air to the intercooler.

Change from Dyno on left from 2010 and 2011
1) REVO Stage 1 to Stage 2
2) K&N Air filter
3) Forge DV from green to yellow spring
4) Forge TIP inlet
5) New spark plugs (factory)

I was told this could be most likely due to too advanced timing - as the car was tuned in winter when it was nice and cool.

What do you guys think? I contacted my REVO dealer and he will drop the timing one step tomorrow. I think if I need more power - I need a FMIC.

What are your thoughts? Peak power hasn't changed much - peak boost actually dropped a little which is interesting... ? yellow spring vs. green spring.

Torque has increased a lot - and I did feel that... buttometer!

[insanekiwi]

I will do VAGCOM tomorrow as well - as far as I know there is no error code.
I am sure they have turned traction control off - can't be traction control can it?

It was both done at 3rd gear. Peak torque on that dyno meter is almost 700 vs. 800. (this is only applicable from same car vs. same car at same gear - not in nm)

[vwthunder]

Do you know what gear they test the car in, is it 4th or 5th

Opps didnt see that part !!

[insanekiwi]

As mentioned both runs on 3rd gear. 2010 one was sunny very dry 20 degree weather. 2011 run pouring down with rain (torrential almost!) humid 21 degree on paper.

I don't know why the power / torque fluctuating at top. Fuel fine, boost seems okay too.

[instigator]

get Audi RS2 spark plugs, they can get you to set youre timing right.
stock ones are not ideal anymore when the car has been mapped.
+ they can melt bacause you have more boost, this will result in more heat also.

you also have 4bar FPR?
maybe this would have anything to do with it?
i'm going stage 2 next saturday, but without 4bar FPR, so i'm not sure how it will work out

and for the love of god, GET A FMIC!!!
i have seen intake temps from a standard polo that was getting remapped with normal chiptune to 200hp.
the intake temp was getting over 80C°!
how do you want to hold youre power without intercooler???
this is the most important thing in 1.8T.
stock smic is rubbish, you will get heatsoak from 2 runs in a row.
let alone if the car is running stage 2

you WILL notice improvents...

[dood9n3]

I fully agree with Instigator re: the fmic, i will be fitting one soon on my gti, already have it in my garage

This is my dyno, before was stock, after was revo1 and octane booster

[fuzion]

i have to disagree with you there.. have played a bit with it and with the revo tune he wont benefit at all from the 4 bar. (unless go 'stage2')

fmic yes. otherwise fpr no.. cant be bothered getting into details, to lazy lol

[insanekiwi]

I need to clarify that I do have 4bar FPR. My spark plugs were in nice colour when I took them out. So don't think a simple change in plugs issue here. I did agree on first post that FMIC is likely needed to go further. My main issue I believe was too advanced timing for NZ fuel and my current setup. I have now timing set at 6 instead of 7.

Done some on road rolling measurements and seem to be doing well without any knocks or pulling.
Boost 8, timing 6, fuel setting 8.

See how we go. Might change the forge dv spring back to green but not think it's the issue here. Car goes well otherwise.

[noone]

Its a Dyno... If its that long appart, could be a calibration or anything...

I perfer logging, at least the ECU is the same, so should give better comparison data.

There is more to boost than the Diverter, I'd be thinking about your SAI, N249 and N112 valves. I've gone back from the VAC mods, but it was def a different drive without them...

[fuzion]

I need to clarify that I do have 4bar FPR. My spark plugs were in nice colour when I took them out. So don't think a simple change in plugs issue here. I did agree on first post that FMIC is likely needed to go further. My main issue I believe was too advanced timing for NZ fuel and my current setup. I have now timing set at 6 instead of 7.

Done some on road rolling measurements and seem to be doing well without any knocks or pulling.
Boost 8, timing 6, fuel setting 8.

See how we go. Might change the forge dv spring back to green but not think it's the issue here. Car goes well otherwise.

Personally id go a Go Fast Bits (GFB) or Baileys Diverter.

Found the fluctation of boost happened a lot with the Forge Diverters. By changing springs you wil notice will come in earlier/later as well.